non-binosaur

This dinosaur is made in the colours of the non-binary flag and was made as part of a collection of pun-related crocheted items I'm making for pride month.

Difficulty:

Easy - medium

You will need:

• dk yarn in white, black, purple, and yellow
• A 2.5mm hook (use this unless otherwise specified)
• A1mm hook
• embroidery thread in purple, black, and a scrap of white (although the white is optional)
• Toy stuffing
• A darning needle

Note:

• 'fasten off neatly' refers to a special way of fastening off which is neater and makes it easier to see where you should be crocheting on the next round (also known as invisible fastening off). This involves pulling up your yarn through your stitch, threading the yarn underneath the second stitch from where you pulled your yarn up, then threading your yarn back through the top of this stitch and down through the back of the work. There is a very helpful site that explains it clearly found here. Just make sure when you do this that you thread your needle through the SECOND stitch after the last stitch you made, otherwise you will end up with an extra stitch which may mean that all of the following rounds are out of line with each other.

For the tail and body:
With black make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 2: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 3: sc3, make 2sc in the  next st (5sc)
Rounds 4 - 5: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 6: sc4, make 2sc in the next st (6sc)
Rounds 7 - 8: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 9: sc5, make 2sc in the next st (7sc)
Rounds 10 - 11: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 12: sc6, make 2sc in the next st (8sc)
Rounds 13 - 14: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 15: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) twice (10sc)
Rounds 16 - 17: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 18: sc, slip4, sc, hdc4
Round 19: make 2sc in the first st, sc4, make 2sc in the next st, sc4 (12sc)
Rounds 20 - 21: (2 rounds) sc2, slip4, sc2, hdc4
Round 22: make 2sc in the first st, sc6, make 2sc in the next st, sc4 (14sc)
Round 23: sc in each st
Round 24: hdc2, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, make 2sc in the following st, hdc4 (16sc)
Round 25: sc in each st
Round 26: hdc2, sc2, slip6, sc2, hdc4
Round 27: hdc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, make 2sc in the next st, hdc5 (18sc)
Round 28: sc in each st
Rounds 29 - 30: (2 rounds) hdc3, sc, slip8, sc, hdc5
Round 31: sc in each st
Rounds 32 - 33: (2 rounds) hdc4, sc, slip8, sc, hdc4
Round 34: sc in each st
Rounds 35 - 36: (2 rounds) hdc4, sc, slip8, sc, hdc4
Rounds 26 - 27: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly

Rejoin purple yarn to the 3rd st after the new st
Round 28: sc in this st, sc in the next 5sts, make 2sc in each of the next sts5, sc5, make 2sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc (21sc)
Round 29: sc14, make 2sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc3 (25sc)
Round 30: sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc10, make 2sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc6
sc19, make 2sc in the next st, sc9 (30sc)
Rounds 31 - 32: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 33: sc6, make 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc22 (32sc)
Round 34: sc in each st
Round 36: sc7, make 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc23 (34sc)
Fasten off neatly
Stuff this section

Rejoin white yarn to the st before the new st you made when fastening off
Round 37: sc in this st, sc26, sc2tog, sc6 (33sc)
Round 38: sc26, sc2tog twice, sc3 (31sc)
Round 39: sc23, sc2tog 3 times, sc (28sc)
Round 40: sc10, sc2tog twice, sc9, sc2tog twice, sc (24sc)
Round 41: sc8, sc2tog 3 times, sc7, sc3tog (19sc)
Round 42: sc6, sc2tog 3 times, sc4, slip3 (16sts)
Round 43: slip2, sc4, hdc2tog twice, sc3, slip4 (14sts)
Round 44: slip2, sc2tog, hdc5, sc2tog, slip3 (12sts)
Stuff firmly
Rounds 45 - 46: (2 rounds) slip3, sc, hdc4, sc, slip3
Round 47: sc in each st
Round 48: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Rounds 49 - 52: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 53: sc3, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog (8sc)
Rounds 54 - 55: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off



For the front legs (make 2):
With white dk yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Rounds 2 - 5: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 6: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 7: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Rounds 8 - 9: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 10: sc2tog twice, sc2, sc2tog twice, sc2 (8sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 11: sc3tog, sc, sc2tog
Fasten off
Sew these to the front of the body


For the back legs (make 2):
with purple dk yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Rounds 2 - 5: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 6: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 7: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 8: make 2sc in each of the first 3sts, sc9 (15sc)
Round 9: sc in each st
Round 10: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc9 (18sc)
Rounds 11 - 12: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times (12sc)
Round 14: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
stuff firmly
Round 14: sc2tog twice
Fasten off
Sew these to the back of the body, so that the curved edge is facing forwards.



For the head:
With yellow ch4
Round 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, then sc in the next chain st. Make 3sc in the last chain st, then sc int he back of the previous chain st you crocheted into. Make 2sc int he back of the first chain st you crocheted into (8sc)
Round 2: make 2sc in the first st, sc, make 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc, make 2sc in both of the last 2sts (14sc)
Round 3: sc, make 2sc in the next st, sc, (sc, make 2sc in the following st) 3 times, sc, (sc, make 2sc in the next st) twice (20sc)
Rounds 4 - 7: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 8: make 3sc in the first st, sc9, make 3sc in the next st, sc9 (26sc)
Round 9: make 2sc in each of the first 3 sts, sc9, make 2sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc9 (32sc)
Rounds 10 - 12: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: sc2tog 3 times, sc9, sc2tog 3 times, sc9 (26sc)
Round 14: sc3tog, sc9, sc3tog, sc9 (20sc)
Round 15: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc, (sc, sc2tog) 3 times, sc, sc, sc2tog, sc (14sc)
Round 16: sc2tog twice, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog
Stuff firmly
Round 17: sc2tog, sc, sc3tog
Fasten off
Sew the head to the body


For the snout:
With yellow yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times (18sc)
Rounds 3 - 4: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off
Sew this to the head

For the mouth:
With yellow make a magic loop with 5. ch1, turn
Row 1: make 2sc in each st (10sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the head underneath the snout


For the eyes (make 2):
with white ch3
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, make 3sc in the following chain st, then make 2sc in the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (6sc)
Fasten off

With purple embroidery thread and a 1mm hook make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2hdc in each of the first 2sts, slip1
Fasten off
Sew these purple sections to the whites of the eyes, then use black embroidery thread to embroider the pupils over the top. You may then wish to add a small highlight using white embroidery thread.

To finish up:
Use black embroidery thread to embroider the eyebrows and nostrils into place.

That's all fro this pattern - I hope you have enjoyed it :) If you have any questions about this or any of my other patterns please feel free to contact me, either by leaving a comment below, or via  my Ravelry or Instagram pages. You are very welcome to sell finished products, but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!!!

pride flag test tubes

This is going to be a fairly general pattern, to allow you to make these test tubes and rack in whatever pride flag colours you want. I will demonstrate using the aromantic flag, which has 5 stripes. The process is exactly the same for any other 5-stripe flag, just with different coloured test tubes, but the rack itself will have to be adjusted for flags containing a different number of stripes.

In this pattern I have specified making all of the test tubes exactly the same, but you may wish to add some variety by altering the ratio of coloured rounds to white rounds, as long as the total number of straight rounds adds up to 24 (eg. you could do rows 2 - 15 in a colour, then rows 16-25 in white) (this will probably make more sense when you see the pattern)

Difficulty:

Medium

(the crochet is very easy but there is a fair amount of construction required for the test tube rack)

You will need:

• Some corrugated cardboard
• 5-6 long barbeque skewers
• A 2.5mm crochet hook
• dk yarn in dark brown, white, and the colours of your pride flag (for the aromantic flag you will need black, grey, light green, and darker green)
• A glue gun (PVA glue may also work)
• A darning needle
• A pencil
• A pair of compasses (the ones used for drawing circles)
• A craft knife

Tension:

The tension required by this pattern is 9sts x 11 rows per 5cm square. This doesn't really matter for the test tubes, but it will matter for the rack, since if your tension is too loose or tight the crochet will not fit neatly around the cardboard.

For the test tubes (make 1 in each of the colours of your flag): 

With the coloured yarn make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)

Rounds 2 - 13: (12 rounds) sc in each st

Fasten off neatly

Rejoin with white yarn

Rounds 14 - 25: (12 rounds) sc in each st

Round 26: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)

Round 27: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)

Stuff firmly

Round 28: sc2tog 6 times

Fasten off neatly

For the rack:

For the top (make 2):
With brown dk yarn ch12

Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next 10 chain sts. ch1, turn (11sc)

Row 2: sc in each of these sts. ch1, turn

Row 3: sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 4: sc2tog, sc2. chq, turn (3sc)

Rows 5 - 7: (3 rows) sc in each of these 3 sts. ch1, turn

Row 8: make 2sc in the first st, sc2

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 2 to the 2nd st from this section you just made

Row 3: sc2tog between this st and the next, sc3. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 4: sc2, sc2tog. ch1, turn

Rows 5 - 7: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn

Row 8: sc2, make 2sc in the next st

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to the end st of  one of these sts

Row 9: sc3, make 2sc in the next st, ch1, make 2sc in the first st of the next section (as shown below), sc3. ch1, turn

Row 10: sc in each st. ch1, turn

---

Row 11: sc in each st. ch1, turn

Row 12: sc in each of these sts. ch1, turn

Row 13: sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 14: sc2tog, sc2. chq, turn (3sc)

Rows 15 - 17: (3 rows) sc in each of these 3 sts. ch1, turn

Row 18: make 2sc in the first st, sc2

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 12 to the 2nd st from this section you just made

Row 13: sc2tog between this st and the next, sc3. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 14: sc2, sc2tog. ch1, turn

Rows 15 - 17: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn

Row 18: sc2, make 2sc in the next st

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to the end st of  one of these sts

Row 19: sc3, make 2sc in the next st, ch1, make 2sc in the first st of the next section, sc3. ch1, turn

Row 20: sc in each st. ch1, turn

---

Row 21: sc in each st. ch1, turn

Row 22: sc in each of these sts. ch1, turn

Row 23: sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 24: sc2tog, sc2. chq, turn (3sc)

Rows 25 - 27: (3 rows) sc in each of these 3 sts. ch1, turn

Row 28: make 2sc in the first st, sc2

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 12 to the 2nd st from this section you just made

Row 23: sc2tog between this st and the next, sc3. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 24: sc2, sc2tog. ch1, turn

Rows 25 - 27: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn

Row 28: sc2, make 2sc in the next st

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to the end st of  one of these sts

Row 29: sc3, make 2sc in the next st, ch1, make 2sc in the first st of the next section, sc3. ch1, turn

Row 30: sc in each st. ch1, turn

---

You should be able to see that these previous 2 section are exactly the same. You should continue to add these sections until you have the required number of holes (corresponding to the number of stripes in you pride flag). Eg for the aromantic flag you should add 2 more of these sections.

Row the final row (row 51 for the aromantic flag): sc in each st

Fasten off

For the bottom (make 2):

With brown yarn ch12

Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, then sc in each of the following 10 chain sts. ch1, turn (11sc)

For each subsequent row: sc in each st. ch1, turn

For the final row: sc in each st

Fasten off

The number of rows on this section will depend on the number of stripes in your flag, and on the tension in your cardboad. In an ideal world This should equal the number of rows in your top section (so fro the aromantic flag you would use 51 rows), but I found that this made the crochet slightly longer than the cardboard. Therefore once you cut our your cardboard you may need to unravel a few rows to make it fit nicely (I only needed 48 rows)

 

For the sides (make 4):
With dark brown yarn ch4

Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in each of the following 3 chain sts to make a loop (4sc)

Rounds 2 - 12: (11 rounds) sc in each st

Fasten off

To make up:

First you will need to cut out the cardboard sections.

Cut out 2 cardboard rectangles with a 5cm width and a length equal to 4*the number of stripes you have in your flag.. Eg. for the aromantic flag the rectangle would be 5x20cm (It has 5 stripes and 20 = 4*5)

You will then need to divide one of these rectangles up into 5*4cm rectangles. In the centre of these rectangles you should use your compasses to draw a circle with a radius of 1.25cm. After you've done this you should cut out each of these circles using a craft knife.

Next you need to cut the barbeque skewers to length. You will need to cut 4 of each of the following lengths: 6cm, ~3.5cm, however long your lengths of cardboard are (20cm for the aromantic flag)

Use a glue gun to glue the longer (eg. 20cm) lengths to the sides of the topand bottom cardboard sections, as shown below. Glue the 3.5cm sections to the ends of these cardboard sections in between the longer skewer sections.

You will then need to glue one of the 6cm sections onto each of the corners of the bottoms cardboard section, so that they point upwards at 90 degrees.

After this you should sew the crocheted sections of the bottom of the rack around the cardboard sections. 

Once you have done this you should push the crocheted side sections over the ends of the 6cm sections of barbeque skewers, such that the ends of the skewers are clearly visible. Sew the bottom end of the crocheted side sections to the crochet of the bottom of the rack.

Once you have done this you will need to glue the top of each of the 6cm sections to the underside of the top section of the rack.

Finally you need to sew the top crocheted sections around the cardboard section. Sew around the edge first, then Sew the two sections together through the holes in the cardboard. You also need to sew the tops of the crocheted section of the sides to the bottom of this top section.

Once you've finished the rack all that's left to do is to place your test tubes in there in the order they appear in the flag.

These test tubes are made in the colours of the genderqueer flag.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you did please think about having a look at some of the other patterns in my LGBTQ+ pride collection (see the 'labels' section on the right-hand side of the page). If you have any questions or comments about this or any of my other patterns, please feel free to contact me, either by leaving a comment below or via my Ravelry or Instagram pages. 

You are very welcome to sell finished products, but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!!!

Trans flag octopus

I made this pattern for a giveaway I was doing as part of an Instagram collaborate project. (If you're interested in this sort of thing please do follow my Instagram. The colours can be easily changed to any of the other pride flags (I have also made an asexual pride one, but the pattern is exactly the same)

Difficulty:

easy - medium

You will need:

• dk yarn in pink, light blue, black, and white
• A 2.5mm crochet hook
• Toy stuffing
• A darning needle for sewing up

For the body: With blue dk yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times (18sc)
Fasten off neatly and change to pink
Round 3: (sc in each of the first 2sts, make 2sc in the next st (24sc)
Round 4: Sc in each st
Fasten off neatly and change to white
Rounds 5 - 6: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly and change to pink
Rounds 7 - 8: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly and change to blue
Rounds 9 - 10: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 11: Sc in the first 6sts, sc2tog 6 times, sc6 (18sc)
Round 12: Sc in the first 3sts, (sc, sc2tog) 4 times, sc3 (14sc)
Fasten off neatly and change to pink
Round 13: sc in each st
Round 14: (Sc in the first 6sts, then make 2sc in the next st) twice (16sc)
Fasten off neatly and change to white
Round 15: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) twice (24sc)
Round 16: (sc in the first 2sts, make 2sc in the next st) twice (32sc)
Fasten off neatly and change to pink
Round 17: (sc in the first 3sts, make 2sc in the next st) twice (40sc)
Round 18: (Ch15, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in each of the 13 following chain sts, then sc in each of the next 5sts of round 17) 8 times (264sts)
Fasten off neatly
Change to blue and fasten on to one of the st before one of the chains of 14 you made then crocheted down on the last round
Round 19: (slightly less than 1 round) Sc in the back loop of each of the first 13 chain sts you crocheted into on the previous round, make 2sc in the last chain st, make 2sc in the next st, sc12 down this leg section (into the sts you made on the last round when crocheting into the chain sts), sc3tog. (sc, sc3tog between the next st and the back of the following 2 chain sts, sc12 in the back of the next set of chain sts, make 2sc in the back loop of the last chain st, make 2sc in the next st, sc12, sc3tog) 7 times, sc (256sc (although it doesn't particularly matter if you're a little bit off))
Round 20: Sc3tog, sc13, make 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc11, sc3tog, (sc3tog, sc11, make 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc11, sc3tog) 7 times
Fasten off

For the underside:
Make a magic loop with 8sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (16sc)
Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 8 times (24sc)
Round 3: (sc in each of the first 2sts, make 2sc in the next st) 8 times (32sc)
Round 4: (sc in each of the first 3sts, make 2sc in the next st) 8 times (40sc)
Round 5: (Ch15, sc14 back down these chain sts (like you did for round 18 of the body), sc5) 7 times, ch15, sc14 back down these chain sts, sc3  (264sts)
Round 5: (Sc3tog, sc11, 2sc, sc13, sc3tog, sc) 8 times, sc
Fasten off

Stuff the main body section and then sew this to the underside of it, making sure then legs of each section match up.



I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions about this or any of my other patterns, please feel free to contact me, either by leaving a comment below, or via my Ravelry or Instagram pages, and I will get back to you as soon as I can. 
You are very welcome to sell finished products, but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!

biceratops

This triceratops in the colours of the bisexual flag was created as part of a series of LGBTQ+ puns I am creating to celebrate pride month. You can keep up to date with all my future designs and get notified when I publish new patterns by following my Instagram page. 

This little dino will also shortly be available to purchase on my Etsy page, with all profits being donated to an LGBTQ+ charity (either the kaleidoscope trust or the LGBT foundation, there is currently a poll going on on my Instagram)

Difficulty:

medium

You will need:

• dk yarn in white, pink, purple, and dark blue
• black yarn (dk or 4ply is ideal)
• A scrap of white embroidery thread (although 4ply would work fine too)
• toy stuffing
• A darning needle

Note:

• 'fasten off neatly' refers to a special way of fastening off which is neater and makes it easier to see where you should be crocheting on the next round (also known as invisible fastening off). This involves pulling up your yarn through your stitch, threading the yarn underneath the second stitch from where you pulled your yarn up, then threading your yarn back through the top of this stitch and down through the back of the work. There is a very helpful site that explains it clearly found here. Just make sure when you do this that you thread your needle through the SECOND stitch after the last stitch you made, otherwise you will end up with an extra stitch which may mean that all of the following rounds are out of line with each other.
• This pattern includes the back-to-front single crochet stitch (bfsc). A video to show you how to do this can be found here. It's pretty simple but if you can't work it out you can just use a regular single crochet stitch, but this will give it a slightly different look.

For the body:
With white ch15
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you crocheted in, then sc in every following chain st to make a loop (15sc)
Round 2: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (20sc)
Round 3: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (25sc)
Round 4: (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (30sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (35sc)
Rounds 8 - 16: (9 rounds) sc in each st
Round 17: (sc3, sc2tog) 5 times, sc10 (30sc)
Round 18: (sc2, sc2tog) 5 times, sc10 (25sc)
Round 19: (sc, sc2tog) 8 times, sc (17sc)
Round 20: sc12, hdc5
Round 21: (sc, sc2tog) 4 times, hdc5 (13sc)
Round 22: sc8, hdc5
Round 23: sc, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc, hdc5 (11sc)
Round 24: sc2, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog (8sc)
Round 25: sc in each st
Round 26: (sc2, sc2tog) twice (6sc)
Round 27: hdc2tog
Fasten off
Stuff firmly

For the front legs (make 2):
With white make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 4: sc, hdc3, sc3, slip3, sc2
Rounds 5 - 6: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 7: sc2, slip3, sc3, hdc3, sc
Round 8: sc in each st
Round 9: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 10: (sc2, sc3tog) twice
Fasten off

Sew to the front of the body, making sure they are facing the right way (the first slipped stitches should be at the front and the second lot of slipped stitches should be at the back)


For the back legs (make 2):
With white make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)
Rounds 2 - 5: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 6: sc, hdc3, sc3, slip3, sc2
Round 7: sc in each st
Round 8: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 9 - 10: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 11: sc3, sc2tog twice, sc4, sc3tog, sc (11sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 12: sc3, sc3tog, sc2, sc3tog (7sc)
Round 13: sc, sc2tog, sc
Fasten off
Sew these to the back of the body (the slipped stitches should be at the back)

For the toes (make 6 in blue and 6 in purple):
make a magic loop with 3sc, slip1 to join
Fasten off
Sew these to the base of the feet in sets of threes. You should sew the purple ones to the front legs and the blue ones to the back legs.

For the head:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: sc3, make 2sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc, make 2sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc20 (36sc)
Round 7: sc in each st
Round 8: sc4, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc19 (30sc)
Round 9: sc3, sc2tog twice, sc, sc2tog twice, sc18 (26sc)
Round 10: (sc2tog, sc2) 3 times, sc14 (20sc)
Round 11: (sc2tog, sc) 3 times, (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times, sc2 (14sc)
Round 12: sc8, ch4, skip7, sc2 (14sts)
Round 13: sc in each of these last 14sts you made
Round 14: sc13
Round 15: sc3tog, sc4, sc3tog, sc3, sc2tog
Round 16: hdc4, sc2tog, slip4
Round 17: sc, hdc4, sc, slip3
Fasten off neatly

Join pink yarn to the st after the 'new' st of this last round
Round 18: sc in this same st, then sc2, hdc3, sc, slip2
Round 19: slip2, hdc3tog, slip1, sc2tog, slip1
Fasten off

stuff this section
With white yarn rejoin to round 11 to the st after the last st you crocheted into in this round
Round 12: sc in this st and the next 6sts, ch5
Round 13: sc in the first st of the last round, sc2tog 3 times, sc2tog between the first 2 chain sts, sc in the next 3 chain sts (8sc)
Round 14: sc2tog, sc3 (7sc)
Fasten off neatly

Rejoin with pink yarn to one of these sts
Round 15: sc2tog 4 times
Fasten off


For the frill:
With white ch26
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the next chain st, (sc4, make 2sc in the next chain st) 3 times, sc5. ch1, turn (29sc)
Round 2: (bfsc5, make 2bfsc in the next st)  4 times, bfsc5. ch1, turn (33sc)
Round 3: (sc6, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times, sc5. ch1, turn (37sc)
Round 4: bfsc2tog, bfsc4, make 2bfsc in the next st, (bfsc7, make 2bfsc in the following st) 3 times, bfsc4, bfsc2tog. ch1, turn (39sc)
Round 5: sc2tog, (sc, hdc, make 2dc in the next st, hdc, sc) 7 times, sc2tog. ch1, turn
Fasten off
Sew the frill around the head


For the frill horns (make 7):
With pink make a magic loop with 4sc, then slip1 to fasten
Fasten off
Sew these around the edges of the frill, approximately to where you made the 2dc stitches in the last round


For the small horn:
With pink yarn ch4
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in each of the following chain sts to make a loop (4sc)
Round 2: sc in each st
Round 3: hdc2tog
Fasten off
Sew this to the snout section of the head


For the large horns (make 2):
With pink yarn ch5
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in each of the following chain sts to make a loop (5sc)
Rounds 2 - 4: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Round 5: sc2tog, hdc, dc
Fasten off
Sew these to the head, then sew the head to the body




To finish off use black yarn to embroider the eyes in place, then add highlights using white embroidery thread. Embroider purple spots onto the back for the first 1/3 of the body, then sew the remaining spots onto the back using blue yarn.



That's all for today :) I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me, either by leaving a comment below of via my Ravelry or Instagram pages, where you can also follow me to keep up to date with what I've been making and be alerted as to when I publish a new pattern. 
As usual you are very welcome to sell finished products but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!!!