girl bunny

This pattern is very similar to my last bunny pattern (found here), except it's a girl. Again the pattern for the bunny can be found here as it's not my pattern but is designed by the very talented Sharon Ojala.

Difficulty:

Medium

Materials:

• A 1.5mm crochet hook 
• Cotton thread weight yarn in white for the bunny plus pink and grey, or whatever other colours you want the clothes to be. The exact brand I used can be bought here, 
• 0.5mm thick wire
• masking tape (optional)
• A darning needle for sewing up
• A small button
• A small amount of black embroidery thread or black cotton thread weight yarn
• A regular sewing needle (if you'de rather use this for the eyes and nose)
• Toy stuffing
• A 5mm popper (or 3 if you want to do up the back of the dress as well)

For the bunny:
Make the dress me bunny by following this link above using a 1.5mm hook and cotton thread weight yarn. Insert a piece of wire inside the ears if you want to keep them standing up. You can see how I did this for my last bunny here. If you wish to make the cardigan you might want to not attach the arms just yet so that you can get them in the right position.

For the dress:
Make the spring time dress that can be found here in pink, using the same hook and weight yarn as you used for the bunny. If you want to do up the back with poppers add one 5mm one at the top and one at the bottom of the back edge.

For the converse:
These are exactly the same as The one's I made for the boy bunny, but in pink
With white make a magic loop with 6 sc
Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (18sc)
Round 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (24sc)
Round 4: sc in the first 3 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (30sc)
Rounds 5 - 6: (2 rounds) sc in each st (30sc)
Row 7: sc in the back loops of the first 4 sts, turn (4sc)
Row 8: sk the first st, 2sc in the next 3 sts, sc into the front loop only of the next 2 sts, turn (8sc)
Row 9: sk the first st, then sc into the first st, 2sc into the next st, rep 3 times, sc into the back loop of the next st.  
Fasten off

Row 10: Join the yarn of the colour of the converse to the beginning of row 9, sc into the next 8 sts. ch1, turn (9sc)
Rows 11 - 12: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 14: sc2tog, sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Fasten off

Row 10: Rejoin the yarn with a ss into the second spoke from the left at the bottom of the white section. ss into the next st. sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts, to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, ss into the first 2 spokes of the white section (17sts)
Rows 11 - 14: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (17sc)
Row 15: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (15sc)
Row 16: sc in each st, ch1, turn (15sc)
Row 17: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (13sc)
Fasten off

Cut a length of white yarn and use it to lace up the shoes through the holes in the crochet.

For the star (make 2):
With white yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Join with a ss and fasten off. Using 2 strands of black embroidery thread embroider a star onto it, and then sew this hole thing onto one side of the shoe. When you make the other one sew ot onto the opposite side of the other shoe. 

For the scarf:

With grey sc5

Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc to end. ch1, turn (5sc)

Rows 2 - 4: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 5: sc to last st, sc into the last st until you have 2 loops on your hook. Change to pink yarn and complete the stitch. ch1, turn (4st)

Rows 6 - 9: (4 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 10: sc to last st, sc into the last st until you have 2 loops on your hook. Change to grey yarn and complete the stitch. ch1, turn (4st)

Repeat the last 5 rows 11 times, but change to pink yarn if you are currently working with grey yarn. This should mean that you have 13 alternating blocks of colours, each 5 rows long.

For the cardigan:

fsc 44. ch1, turn

Rows 1 - 6: (6 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (44sc)

Row 7: sc in the first 20 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the last 19sts. ch1, turn (42sc)

Row 8: sc in the first 18 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the last 19sts. ch1, turn (40sc)

Row 9: sc in the first 18 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in the last 17sts. ch1, turn (38sc)

Rows 10 - 12: sc in each st. ch1, turn (38sc)
Row 13: sc5, ch 8, sc into the 9st st from base of chain, sc in the next 11 st, ch8, sc in the 9th st from base of chain, sc in the last 4 sts.Turn (38sts)
Row 14: ss into the first 5 sts and the next 8 ch sts, sc in the next 12 sts, ss to end. (38sts)
Faasten off

For the sleeves (Make 2):
ch18, ss into the 1st ch, ch1
Round 1: sc in each st around (18sc)
Rounds 2 - 11: (10 rounds) sc in each st (18sc)
Row 12: sc in the first 8 sts. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 13: ss in the first st, sc in the next 6 sts. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 14: ss in the first st, sc in the next 4 sts.
Next ss 17 around the edge of the sleeve and fasten off.

Sew the sleeves onto the main body of the cardigan then sew the popper onto the top of the front edge to fasten it.

Finally sew the arms onto the bunny if you haven't already, making sure that they're in the right position to fit into the armholes of the cardigan.

And that's all! I hope that you enjoyed this pattern. Don't forget that you can post any of your creations on my facebook page. Happy crocheting!

Foundation single crochet

I have recently learned to do the foundation single crochet (fsc) stitch and am astonished at how easy it is to learn.

I found a handy website here, which is how I learned, as I prefer to look at pictures rather that a video because I can work at my own speed, however, there is a video here that's good as well.

The idea of this stitch is that you don't need to make a huge long line of chain stitches and then fiddle about trying to make single crochet stitches into each of these chains. It's great!

Another great thing about this is that, because it has roughly the same amount of 'give' (stretch) as the rest of the fabric, it gives you a much more accurate idea of how wide your finished piece is going to be. There's nothing worse than realising after a few rows that your crochet is the wrong size and you need to unravel it and start again.

You can see from this picture that, because the fsc stitch is firmer, it doesn't curl up so much, which also makes it easier to work with.

Hopefully, you can now see how useful the fsc stitch is and this post will encourage you to go away and learn it.

However, if you'd rather not have another stitch to have to remember how to do, you can usually just chain the number of fsc stitches you're meant to do, then chain another one and turn. sc into the 2nd st from the hook, then sc to the end of the row.

Happy crocheting!

Mini bunny with shorts and t-shirt

This pattern is quite similar to my spiderman bunny pattern but quite a bit smaller, and I've also designed and made a new costume for it. 

Difficulty:

Medium

Materials:

• A 1.5mm crochet hook 
• Cotton thread weight yarn in white for the bunny plus whatever other colours you want the clothes to be. The exact brand I used can be bought here, 
• 0.5mm thick wire
• masking tape (optional)
• A darning needle for sewing up
• A small button
• A small amount of black embroidery thread or cotton thread weignt yarn in black
• A regular sewing needle (If you find it easier to do the eyes and nose using this)
• Toy stuffing

The pattern for the bunny can be found here, but don't attach the ears, arms and tail just yet, as they will need to go in a specific position in order to fit. Instead of using pipe cleaners inside the ears I used wire:

Measure out a length of wire a little longer than the outside edge of the ear

Fold over the extra lengths so that the ends are not sharp

If you plan to give this to a child or baby, you may want to put a little masking tape over the ends to make extra sure that it isn't sharp.

For the cap:
Make a magic loop with 6 sc (6sc)
Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: sc in first st, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. ch1, turn (18sc)
Row 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (12sc)
Row 4: sc in the first 3 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (15sc)
Row 5: sc in the first 4 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (18sc)
Row 6: sc in the first 5 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (21sts)
Row 7: sc in the first 13 sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts. ch1, turn (22sc)
Rows 8-10: (3 rounds) sc in each st around. ch1, turn (22sc)
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to round 2

Row 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (12sc)
Row 4: sc in the first 3 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (15sc)
Row 5: sc in the first 4 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (18sc)
Row 6: sc in the first 5 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep twice. ch1, turn (21sc)
Row 7: 2sc in the first st, sc in the next 13 sts, 2sc in the next st, sc to end. ch1, turn (23sc)
Row 8: sc in the first 7 sts, slip the next 9 sts, sc in the last 7 sts. ch1, turn(23sts)
Row 9: sc into the first 6 sts, slip the next 11 sts, sc into the last 6 sts. ch1, turn (23sts)
Row 10: sc into the first 5 sts, slip the next 13 sts, sc into the last 5 sts. ss into the first st in the next section. ch1, turn (23sts)
Round 11: sc into the first 4 sts of the section you worked, slip the next 15 sts, sc into the next 4 sts of this section and then continue on to sc into all 22 sts in the next section. ss into the 1st st of this round. (45sts)
Fasten off


For the brim:
Make a magic loop with 5 sts. Don't join but ch1 and turn
Row 1: 2sc in each st around. ch1, turn (10 sc)
Row 2: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. ch1, turn (15sc)
Round 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. ch1, turn (20sc)
Round 4: sc in the first 3 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. ch1, turn (25sc)
Round 5: sc in the first 24 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. (30sc)
Fasten off

Sew the brim onto the front of the hat (or the back if you want your bunny to wear their hat back to front)

Place the hat on the head of your bunny and sew the ears ontot he head in the holes in the cap. It's easier if you pin them on 
first then remove the hat and sew them on, as this reduces the chance of sewing the ears onto the cap by mistake.

For the shirt:
fsc 43
Round 1: sc in the first st of the row, sc to end (43sc)
Roounds 2-4: (3 rows)sc in each st around. ch1, turn (43sc)
Row 5: sc2tog, sc in the next 5 sts, rep 4 times, sc2tog, sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog. ch1, turn (36sc)
Rows 6-9: (4 rows)sc in each st. ch1, turn (36sc)
Row 10: sc in the first 4 sts, sc2tog, rep to end. ch1, turn (30sc)
Rows 11 - 12: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (30sc)
Rows 13 - 15: (3 rows) sc in the first 4 sts, slip the next 6 sts, sc into the next 10 sts, slip the next 6 sts, sc into the next 4 sts. ch1, turn (30sts)
Row 16: sc in the first 3 sts, ch 8, sk 8 sts, sc into the next 8 sts, ch 8, sk 8 sts, sc into the last 3 sts (30sts)
Fasten off

For the sleeves (make 2):
fsc 18
Rounds 1 - 2: (2 rows) sc in each st (at the start of round 1 sc into the first st of the row, so that you form a tube) (18sc)
Row 3: sc into the first 9 sts, turn (9sc)
Row 4: ss into the first st, sc into the next 7 sts, turn (8sts)
Round 5: ss into the first st,sc 18 around the edge of the sleeve, ss into the first sc of this round.
Fasten off

Sew the sleeves too the armholes in the shirt.
Sew the button onto the back of the shirt and add a small loop of red yarn to the back so that you can fasten it

For the shorts:
fsc 40
Row 1: sc into the first st of the row, sc into the next 9 sts, slip the next 5 sts, sc into the last 25 sts. ch1, turn (40sts)
Row 2: sc into the first 25 sts. ch1, turn (25sc)
Rows 3 - 5: (3 rows)sc into the next 35 sts. ch1, turn (35sc)
Row 6: (This is really just half of the 'row' but I've decided to stop it here so that it all lines up again) sc into the first 10 sts.
Round 7: sc into the first 25 sts, ch 3, sc into the next 10 sts (38 sts)

Rounds 8 - 12: (5 rounds) sc in each st around. (38sc)
Round 13: sc in the first 7 sts, ch8, ss into the 18th st from the base of the chain, sc into the same st and the next 12 sts (27sts)
Rounds 14 - 18: (5 rounds) sc around each of the sts you crocheted into on the last round (27sc)
Fasten off

Round 13: Re-join the yarn to the stitch you made in this last section before the ch8 (on round 13), and sc 19 around the edge to the other side, ending in the stitch where you made a ss and sc after the ch8. Ch8 and ss into the first st of the round. (27sts)
Rounds 14 - 18: (5 rounds) sc into each if the sts you crocheted on the last round. (27sc)
Fasten off

Sew up the hole in the space between each leg.


For the converse shoes:
The insparation for these was taken from a pattern for some baby converse booties, which are amazing, and the pattern can be found here

With white make a magic loop with 6 sc
Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (18sc)
Round 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (24sc)
Round 4: sc in the first 3 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (30sc)
Rounds 5 - 6: (2 rounds) sc in each st (30sc)
Row 7: sc in the back loops of the first 4 sts, turn (4sc)
Row 8: sk the first st, 2sc in the next 3 sts, sc into the front loop only of the next 2 sts, turn (8sc)
Row 9: sk the first st, then sc into the first st, 2sc into the next st, rep 3 times, sc into the back loop of the next st.  
Fasten off

Row 10: Join the yarn of the colour of the converse to the beginning of row 9, sc into the next 8 sts. ch1, turn (9sc)
Rows 11 - 12: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 14: sc2tog, sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Fasten off

Row 10: Rejoin the yarn with a ss into the second spoke from the left at the bottom of the white section. ss into the next st. sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts, to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, ss into the first 2 spokes of the white section (17sts)
Rows 11 - 14: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn (17sc)
Row 15: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (15sc)
Row 16: sc in each st, ch1, turn (15sc)
Row 17: sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (13sc)
Fasten off

Cut a length of white yarn and use it to lace up the shoes through the holes in the crochet.

For the star (make 2):
With white yarn make a magic loop with 6sc
Join with a ss and fasten off. Using 2 strands of black embroidery thread embroider a star onto it, and then sew this hole thing onto one side of the shoe. When you make the other one sew ot onto the opposite side of the other shoe. 

I hope you enjoyed this pattern, you are welcome to sell finished products but please don't repost this pattern or claim it or any of the pictures as your own. Thank you! Don't forget that you can post anything you make on my facebook page, sunnyanddippycatcrochet

Elephant hot air balloon mobile

I got the inspiration for this design from a similar mobile that I saw on pinterest, which was for sale on etsy (but has now sold)I found it in a beautiful little shop called crochetonatree. At first the basket I made was too small for the elephant, and then when I made the basket bigger the balloon looked out of proportion but I adapted it a bit and here it is. If you're not very experienced at sewing things up, or just can't be bothered to sew lots of different peices together, I've included the pattern for a balloon that only has one colour, but I much prefer the look of it with two alternating colours.

Difficulty:

Easy - Medium

If you would like to purchase one of these mobiles pre-made I have recently opened up an Etsy shop and am selling a few of them, please do go check them out!

Materials:

• 4.5mm crochet hook
• 3mm crochet hook
• 3.5mm crochet hook
• white dk weight yarn
• Brown dk weight yarn
• Grey dk weight yarn
• Aran weight yarn in whatever colour you want to make the balloon
• White aran weight yarn
• darning needle to sew up
• toy stuffing
• 8" embroidery hoop
• White paint
• A little black yarn or two black beads for the eyes

For basket:

With brown yarn and 3mm hook:

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 6 sc

Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: sc in 1^st st, 2sc in 2^nd st, rep to end (18sc)

Round 3: sc in first 2 sts, 2sc in next st, rep to end (24sc)

Round 4: sc in first 3 sts, 2sc in next st, rep to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc in first 4 sts, 2sc in next st, rep to end (36sc)

Round 6: sc in first 5 sts, 2sc in next st, rep to end (42sc)

Rounds 7 - 16:(10 rounds) sc in each sc (42sc)

Round 17: ch3, dc in 2^nd sc from base of chain, (ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st) rep to end, ch1, ss into 2^nd ch of first ch3

Fasten off

Cut out a piece of card the same width as the base of the basket and place it in the bottom to keep it rigid.
I also made a base to keep the cardboard in place by using the first 6 rows of the basket and the sewing it inside at the bottom. Without it I found that the cardboard tended to slide out of blace and make the basket look misshapen. If you're unsure of what size you should make the cardboard make this crocheted base first and trace around the outside. 

To make the chords which connect the basket to the balloon make a ss into one of the ch sts (Not ch spaces otherwise it is likely to come undone) around the top of the basket. Ch12, fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew onto balloon.

Rep at equal intervals around the top edge of the basket. There should be 4 ch spaces in between them, except for at the front of the basket, where there will be 5.

For the single coloured balloon:

With red yarn:

Ch 24, join with ss to 1^st ch, ch 1

Rounds 1 - 4:(4 rounds) sc in each st

Round 5: sc in first 3 sts, sc2 in next st, rep (30sc)

Round 6:  sc in first 4 sts, sc2 in next st, rep (36sc)

Round 7: sc in first 5 sts, sc2 in next st, rep (42sc)

Round 8: sc in first 6 sts, sc2 in next st, rep (48sc)

Round 9: sc in first 7 sts, sc2 in next st, rep (54sc)

Rounds 10 - 17:(8 rounds) sc in each st (54sc)

Round 18: sc in first 7 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (48sc)

Round 19: sc in first 6 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (42sc)

Round 20: sc in first 5 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (36sc)

Round 21: sc in first 4 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (30sc)

Round 22: sc in first 3 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (24sc)

Round 23: sc in first 2 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (18sc)

Round 24: sc in first st, sc2tog, rep to end (12sc)

Round 25: sc2tog to end (6sc)

Fasten off, weave yarn through rem sts  and secure.

For the double coloured balloon (Make 3 in your main colour and three in white):

With white yarn ch 5, turn

Row 1-4: (4 rows): sc in each st, ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 5: sc in next st, sc2 in next st , sc both rem sts, ch1, turn (5sc)

Row 6: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 2 sts ch1, turn (6sc)

Row 7: sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 3 sts ch1, turn (7sc)

Row 8: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 3 sts ch1, turn (8sc)

Row 9: sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 4 sts, ch1, turn (9sc)

Rows 10-17: (8 rows) sc in each st, ch1, turn (9sc)

Row 18: sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem 3 sts, ch1, turn (8sc)

Row 19: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem 3 sts, ch1, turn (7sc)

Row 20: sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem 2 sts, ch1, turn (6sc)

Row 21: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem 2 sts, ch1, turn (5sc)

Row 22: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem st, ch1, turn (4sc)

Row 23: sc in next st, sc2tog in next st, sc in rem st, ch1, turn (3sc)

Row 24: sc in first st, sc2tog in rem st, ch1, turn (2sc)

Row 25: sc2tog (1sc)

Fasten off.

Sew all of the long edges together, alternating the colours and making sure that the cast on tail  of the yarn is always on the left side of the piece. Use an overcast (straight) stitch to sew them together and then turn the balloon inside out so that the stitching isn't so visible.

For the elephant:

Make all parts using a 3mm hook and grey yarn. 

To make the head:

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 6 sts

Round 1: sc2, rep to end (12sc)

Round 2: sc2 in 1^st st, sc in next st, rep to end (18sc)

Round 3: sc2 in first st, sc in next 2 sts, rep to end (24sc)

Round 4: sc2 in first st, sc in next 5 sts, rep to end (28sc)

Rounds 5 – 8:(4 rows) sci n each st (28sc)

Round 9: sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, rep to end (24sc)

Round 10: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, rep to end (18sc)
stuff firmly before continuing.

Round 11: sc2tog, sc in next st, rep to end (12sc)

Round 12: sc2tog, rep to end (6sc)

Rounds 13-19: (7 rounds) sc in each st (6sc)

Round 20: sc2tog, rep to end (3sc)

Fasten off and weave thread through sts. Secure and thread yarn back through trunk. Pull tight to create an indent at the end of the trunk.

To make the body:

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 6 sts

Round 1: sc2, rep to end (12sc)

Round 2: sc2 in 1^st st, sc in next st, rep to end (18sc)

Round 3: sc2 in first st, sc in next 2 sts, rep to end (24sc)

Rounds 4 – 10:(7 rounds) sc in each st (24sc)

Round 11: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, rep to end (18sc)

Round 12: sc2tog, sc in next st, rep to end (12sc)

Round 13: sc2tog, rep to end (6sc)

Sc2tog

Fasten off and thread yarn through sts. Secure.

To make the front legs (make 2):

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 6 sts

Rounds 1-5:(5 rounds) sc in each st (6sc)

Fasten off

To make the back legs (make 2):

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 6 sts

Round 1: sc2 in each st (12sc)

Rounds 2-7:(6 rounds) sc in each st (12sc)

Sl next st and Fasten off

To make the ears (make 2):

Magic loop/ adjustable ring with 5 sts

Pull tight but don’t join

Round 1: sc2 in each st, ch1, turn (10sc)

Round 2: sc2 in 1^st st, sc in next st, rep to end, ch1, turn (15sc)

Round 3: sc2 in first st, sc in next 2 sts, rep to end, ch1, turn (20sc)

Fasten off

To make the tail:

Ch6

Fasten off and thread yarn tail back through ch sts

Wind a length of yarn around one of your fingers three times and then cut it at one end. Get another length of yarn and tie it tightly around this bundle. sew this to the end of the tail, where there is no yarn

Next you need to sew all the pieces onto the elephant, as referring to the photo below if necessary. Then either sew on the beads, just above the trunk, or embroider them with black yarn if preferred.

To make up:
Take out the middle of the embroidery hoop and paint it white. You will need to paint at least two coats to cover it evenly. When it's completely dry attach the balloon underneath it. To do this you will need to tie three lengths of the white yarn to the edge of the hoop at even intervals and then secure them in the centre. Try to make it as secure as possible and if you're worried you could add superglue to the yarn. Tie another length of yarn to where they meet and sew this to the top of the balloon.
Alternatively you could just hang it from one side but I think this makes it look a little uneven. Sew the ends of the ties that are attached to the basket to the base of the balloon so that it hangs evenly and place the elephant in the basket. Tie three more lengths of yarn to the hoop so that you end up with 6 lengths attached at even intervals. tie these together above the hoop and the loop the ends back around so that they form a loop from which you can hang the mobile from.

For the clouds (Make 3):
These are adapted from this pattern which I found online but I find kind of difficult to follow. I've arranged it all into rounds and 
have changed the method of decreasing.
Whilst you are doing it it will look like it's all wrong and doesn't match up but it works out in the end I promise you. You can either stuff it as you go or at the end before you do the last round


With white dk yarn and a 3.5mm hook make a magic loop with 6 sc
Round 1: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 2: sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3: sc in the first 10 sts, sc2tog (11sc)
Round 4: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3 in the next st (13sc)
Round 5: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the last st (17sc)
Round 6: sc in the first 12 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the next st, sc in the last 2 sts (21sc)
Round 7: sc in the first 14 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the next st, sc in the last 4 sts (25sc)

Round 8: sc in the first 16 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the next st, sc in the last 6 sts (29sc)

Round 9: sc in each st around (29sc)

Round 10: sc in the first 16 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog, sc in the next 6 sts (25sc)

Round 11: sc in the first 14 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog, sc in the next 4 sts (21sc)

Round 12: sc in the first 12 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog, sc in the next 2 sts (19sc)

Round 13: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog (17sc)

Round 14: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the last st(19sc)

Round 15: sc in the first 12 sts, sc3 in the next st, sc in the next st, sc3 in the next st, sc in the last 2 sts(21sc)

Round 16: sc in each st around (21sc)

Round 17: sc in the first 12 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog, sc in the last 2 sts (17sc)

Round 18: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3tog, sc in the next st, sc3tog in the last Sts (14sc)

Round 19: sc in the first 10 sts, sc3tog in the last sts (11sc)

Rounds 20 - 21:(2 rounds) sc in each st around (11sc)

Sc2tog 7 times then fasten off.

Sew a long piece of yarn to the centre top of the clouds and tie this to the edge of the wooden ring.

Please refrain from hanging this mobile directly above the baby's cot because as it is handmade there is no guarantee that it will not fall down. 

You are permitted to sell finished items but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Also please could you not republish these photos as your own. Thank you!