This is the pattern for an approx. 20" (50cm) tall model of the 10th Doctor from Doctor who (played by David Tennant). Please tell me if you find any faults with this pattern as it is quite likely there will be some since it is rather long. The face is made to look like David Tennant's by shaping it with lots of small stitches, but I have added quite a few pictures along the way to help you.
Please note: I have decided to change the way I write my patterns slightly to make them easier to read. Instead of writing 'sc in the following 12 sts' (or whatever the number of stitches is), in many cases I have just written 'sc12' (Also 'sc, hdc, dc' would mean 'sc1, hdc1, dc1' or' sc in the first st, hdc in the next st and dc in the following st')
If you dislike this please tell me and I'll never do it again :)
Please also note: whenever you are crocheting and encounter a slipped st in the previous row/round, crochet over the top of it into the row below to in effect hide it (unless stated otherwise). I have tried to remind you of this in the pattern but it happens such a lot that I may have forgotten on a few occasions.
Difficulty:
Medium
 |
| most people who saw my model were surprised about how big he was, so here is a sort of size comparison |
Difficulty:
Medium
You will need:
- dk yarn in peach (use this if not specified), white, red, blue, dark brown and medium/ light brown
- 4ply yarn in white
- 2.5mm hook (use this unless specified)
- 2mm hook
- 1.5mm hook
- 1mm hook
- darning needle
- smaller embroidery needle
- regular sewing needle
- white or grey sewing cotton
- toy stuffing
- embroidery thread in dark brown, medium brown, black, silver, light grey, bright blue, yellow medium blue (optional) and pinkish (for the lips) (most of these you only need a very small amount of)
- 14 white 7mm wide buttons
- 4 blue 11mm wide buttons
- 4 light brown 11mm wide buttons
- Some tough (ideally transparent) plastic (I used a cleaned out takeaway boy)
- Some thinner transparent plastic (I used a spare poly-pocket file (just make sure it is of decent enough quality that if you pierce it with a needle it isn't going to tear))
For the left foot and leg (make 2):
Stuff the foot as well as you can throughout
ch4
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain from hook, sc in the next chain st along (the 2nd one you made), 3sc in the next chain st (the first one you made) sc in the back of nthe 2nd chain st you made, 2sc in the back of the 3rd chain st you made. These last 8sts form a round
Rounds 2 - 4: (3 rounds) sc in each st (8sc)
Round 5: sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc (10sc)
Round 6: sc in each st
Round 7: sc in the first 9sts, slip the next st
Round 8: slip the first 2sts, ch1, sc in the next 7sts
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the first of the sc7 section
Round 9: ch1, sc2, slip the next 3sts, sc2, ch2, slip into the start of the row you just crocheted (to make a loop)
Round 10: sc in the stitch you just slipped, sc in the next 8sts (9sc)
Round 11: sc in each st (don't crochet into the slipped stitch from the last round - you may need to check at the end of this round that you have 9 sts)
Round 12: sc in the first 8sts, 2sc in the next st (10sc)
Round 13: 2sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc8 (12sc)
Rounds 14 - 15: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 16: 2sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc10 (14sc)
Rounds 17 - 20: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc in the first st, sc2tog twice, sc9 (12sc)
Round 22: sc in each st
Round 24: sc2tog 3 times, sc6 (9sc)
Round 25: sc6, 3sc in the next st, sc sts (11sc)
Rounds 26 - 27: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 28: sc6, sc3tog, sc2 (9sc)
Round 29: sc in each st
Round 30: 2sc in the first st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (11sc)
Round 31: sc in each st
Round 32: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (13sc)
Round 33: sc in each st
Round 34: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (15sc)
Round 35: sc in each st
Round 36: sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (17sc)
Round 37: sc in each st
Round 38: 2sc in the first st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (19sc)
Round 40: sc in each st
Round 41: sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (21sc)
Round 42: sc20, sc2tog, sc19 (20sc)
Fasten off neatly
Stuff
For the right foot and leg:
do as you did for the left leg up to the last round up to round 41
Round 42: sc7, sc2tog, sc11 (20sc)
Fasten off neatly
Stuff
For the heels (make 2):
on each leg in turn sc 9 sts around the edge of the hole in the foot
Round 1: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times to end
Fasten off
Sew the hole shut
Add any extra stuffing to the leg if needed.
For the hips and torso:
re-join yarn to the right leg in the 'new' stitch you made when fastening off neatly
Round 43: sc in the same st and the next 17 sts. Sc in the left leg in the 10th st after the 'new' st you made when fastening off, sc in the next 17 sts of the left leg. ch1, then make a slip stitch into the first st of this round
Round 44: sc in the stitch you've just slipped, sc in the next 36 sts
Round 45: (2 rounds) sc in each st (again don't crochet into the slipped stitch)
Round 46: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc12, 2sc in the last st (40sc)
Round 47: sc8, sc2tog, sc3, 2sc in each of the next 2sts sc9, 2sc in each of the next 2sts, sc3, sc2tog, sc9 (42sc)
Rounds 48 - 49: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Rounds 50 - 51: (I have joined two rounds together since there is a sc2tog in the middle of them) sc9, sc2tog, sc21, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc12, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc12 (35sc)
Round 52: sc in the first 14 sts, sc2tog, sc2, skip the next 3sts, then sc in the following 2sts, sc2tog, sc12 (30sc)
Round 53: sc in each st
Round 54: sc7, sc2tog, sc13, sc2tog, sc in the last 6sts (28sc)
Rounds 55 - 56: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 57: sc7, sc2tog, sc11, sc2tog, sc in the last 6 sts (26sc)
Rounds 58 - 61: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 62: sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc5 (28sc)
Round 63: sc in each st
Round 64: sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc5 (30sc)
Round 65: sc in each st
Round 66: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc6 (32sc)
Round 67: sc29, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (33sc)
Round 68: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc25 (36sc)
Rounds 69 - 70: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 71: sc12, 2sc in the next st, sc16, 3sc in the next st, sc2, sc2tog, sc2 (37sc)
Round 72: sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc21 (34sc)
Fasten off neatly
For the thumb (make 2):
with a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Round 1: sc in each st
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc3 (5sc)
Round 3: sc in each st
Round 4: 2sc in the first st, sc4 (6sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: 2sc in the first st, sc5 (7sc)
Fasten off
For the pinky finger (make 2):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 4: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the ring and index finger (make 4 in total):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 5: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the middle finger (make 2):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 6: (6 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the left hands/ arm:
Still using a 2.5mm hook rejoin yarn to one of the stitches on the pinky finger.
Round 1: sc in the same st and the next 2 sts, sc into one of the stitches on the ring finger, sc into one of the stitches of the middle finger, sc into one of the stitches of the index finger, sc in the next 2 sts of the index finger, sc into the middle finger in the 2nd st from where you last crocheted, sc into the ring finger in the 2nd st from where you last crocheted, make a slip stitch into the first st of this round (10sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each of these 10 sts (again make sure you don't sc in the slipped stitch)
Round 4: sc4, sc3tog, sc5 (12sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: sc4, sc3tog, sc5 (10sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (8sc)
At this point sew the thumb to the side of the hand
Rounds 8 - 10: (3 rounds) sc in each st
switch to a 2mm hook
Rounds 11 - 12: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (10sc)
Round 14: sc in each st
Round 15: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Rounds 16 - 17: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 18: sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc (14sc)
Rounds 19 - 20: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc4, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc (12sc)
Round 22: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Round 23 - 24: (2 rounds) sc in each st
change to a 2.5mm hook
Rounds 25 - 28: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 29: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Round 30: sc in each st
Round 31: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc9 (13sc)
Round 32: sc in each st
Round 33: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (15sc)
Round 34: sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the right hands/ arm:
This is very similar to the left arm, but with a few differences (particularly around the upper arm). Differences are shown in bold and underlined
Round 1: Attach the fingers together exactly as you did for the left arm (10sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each of these 10 sts (again make sure you don't sc in the slipped stitch)
Round 4: sc6, sc3tog, sc3 (12sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: sc7, sc3tog, sc2 (10sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (8sc)
At this point sew the thumb to the side of the hand
Rounds 8 - 10: (3 rounds) sc in each st
switch to a 2mm hook
Rounds 11 - 12: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (10sc)
Round 14: sc in each st
Round 15: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Rounds 16 - 17: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 18: sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc (14sc)
Rounds 19 - 20: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc4, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc (12sc)
Round 22: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Round 23 - 24: (2 rounds) sc in each st
change to a 2.5mm hook
Rounds 25 - 28: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 29: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc1 (12sc)
Round 30: sc in each st
Round 31: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (13sc)
Round 32: sc in each st
Round 33: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (15sc)
Round 34: sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the shoulders and neck:
Round 1: join to 2nd st from makeshift st on the body. Sc in this st and the next 13sts. Sc in the 5th st from the makeshift st on the right arm, sc in the next 11sts, sc in the 4th st from the last st you crocheted into in the body , sc in the next 13sts, sc in the 8th st from the makeshift st on the left arm, sc in the next 11sts, slip the 4th st from the last st you crocheted into on the body, (which is also the first st of this round) (51sc)
Round 2: sc in the same st and the next 50 sts
Rounds 3 - 5: (3 rounds) sc in each st (don't crochet into the slipped stitch)
Round 6: sc19, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc4 (46sc)
Round 7: sc26, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc12 (44sc)
Round 8: sc7, sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog 3 times, sc15, sc2tog 3 times (37sc)
Round 9: (This is slightly more than one round) sc15, sc2tog 3 times, sc4, sc3tog, sc4, sc2tog 3 times (29sc)
Round 10: (Again slightly more than 1 round) sc in the back loop only for 6 sts, sc in both loops for 2 sts, sc in the back loop only for 6sts, sc2tog twice, sc8, sc2tog twice (25sc)
Round 11: sc11, sc3tog, twice, sc5, sc3tog (19sc)
Round 12: sc3tog, sc16 (17sc)
Rounds 13 - 15: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Row 15.5: (this is a very small row of stitches used to get the next few rows in the next place) sc4, turn
Row 16: slip11. Ch1, turn
Row 17: (crochet this round over the top of the slipped stitches (PICTURE) sc9, sc2tog, turn (10sc)
Row 18: slip 10. ch1, turn
Row 19: sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, turn (8sc)
Row 20: slip8. Ch1, turn
Row 21: sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog (6sc)
Fasten off
For the head:
ch3
Sew the ears onto the head
For the crotch section:
Round 35: rejoin yarn to one stitch on one of the legs. Sc in this st and the next 20sts. Next sc in one of the stitches of the other trouser leg, then sc in the next 20 sts of this leg. This should join the two trouser legs together. (42sc)
Round 36: sc in the first st you crocheted in the last round, sc40, 2sc in the last st of this round (this should form a loop) (43sc)
Round 37: 2sc in the first st , sc40, 2sc in the next st, sc (45sc)
Sew a button onto the waistband of the trousers opposite the buttonhole
For the jacket:
ch47
Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc44, 2sc in the last chain st. ch1, turn (48sc)
Row 2: 2sc, sc46, 2sc. ch1, turn (50sc)
Row 3: 2sc, sc48, 2sc. ch1, turn (52sc)
Row 4: 2sc, sc50, 2s. ch1, turnc (54sc)
Rows 5 - 13: (9 rows) sc54. ch1, turn
Row 14: sc10, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc10. ch1, turn (51sc)
Row 38: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Rows 39 - 40: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 41: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Rows 42 - 45: (4 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 46: slip1, sc2, hdc1, dc1
Fasten off
Rejoin yarn top the 9th st from the other end of the large section on row 34
Row 35: sc in this st and the next 8sts. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 36: sc2tog, sc7. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 37: sc8. ch1, turn
Row 38: sc2tog, sc6. ch1, turn (7sc)
Rows 39 - 40: (2 rows) sc7. ch1, turn
Row 41: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Rows 42 - 43: (2 rows) sc6. ch1, turn
Row 44: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 45: sc5. ch2, turn
Row 46: dc, hdc, sc2, slip
Fasten off
Row 35: sc in this st and the next 19 sts. ch1, turn (20sc)
Row 21: sc2tog, sc3, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Row 22: 2sc in the first st, sc2, sc2tog (6sc)
join yarn to the right armhole in the opposite position that you attached it before (the place where the front edge meets the front bottom bit)
Round 1: sc36 around this armhole
Row 2: slip8 sc10, sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc6. slip1, ch1, turn
Row 3: skip1, slip5, sc4, sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, sc5, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip1, slip2, sc3, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc3, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 5: skip1, sc29 around the edge of the armhole. slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn
Row 6: (this is a little more than one round) slip the slipped st and the next 16sts, sc6, sc2tog, sc7, slip1, ch1, turn
Rows 7 - 9: (3 rounds) sc in the slipped st, sc27, slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn (28sc)
For the collar:
join yarn to the st just above the buttonhole on the jacket.
Row 1: Sc in this st then sc 43 around the neckline, finishing in the st opposite where you started
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 'loop behind the back loop' (which is in this instance at the front) of the first st of the last round (this is called the 'third loop' in the diagram below)
Round 5: sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc (10sc)
Round 6: sc in each st
Round 7: sc in the first 9sts, slip the next st
Round 8: slip the first 2sts, ch1, sc in the next 7sts
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the first of the sc7 section
Round 9: ch1, sc2, slip the next 3sts, sc2, ch2, slip into the start of the row you just crocheted (to make a loop)
Round 10: sc in the stitch you just slipped, sc in the next 8sts (9sc)
Round 11: sc in each st (don't crochet into the slipped stitch from the last round - you may need to check at the end of this round that you have 9 sts)
Round 12: sc in the first 8sts, 2sc in the next st (10sc)
Round 13: 2sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc8 (12sc)
Rounds 14 - 15: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 16: 2sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc10 (14sc)
Rounds 17 - 20: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc in the first st, sc2tog twice, sc9 (12sc)
Round 22: sc in each st
Round 24: sc2tog 3 times, sc6 (9sc)
Round 25: sc6, 3sc in the next st, sc sts (11sc)
Rounds 26 - 27: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 28: sc6, sc3tog, sc2 (9sc)
Round 29: sc in each st
Round 30: 2sc in the first st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (11sc)
Round 31: sc in each st
Round 32: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (13sc)
Round 33: sc in each st
Round 34: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (15sc)
Round 35: sc in each st
Round 36: sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (17sc)
Round 37: sc in each st
Round 38: 2sc in the first st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (19sc)
Round 40: sc in each st
Round 41: sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (21sc)
Round 42: sc20, sc2tog, sc19 (20sc)
Fasten off neatly
Stuff
For the right foot and leg:
do as you did for the left leg up to the last round up to round 41
Round 42: sc7, sc2tog, sc11 (20sc)
Fasten off neatly
Stuff
For the heels (make 2):
on each leg in turn sc 9 sts around the edge of the hole in the foot
Round 1: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times to end
Fasten off
Sew the hole shut
Add any extra stuffing to the leg if needed.
For the hips and torso:
re-join yarn to the right leg in the 'new' stitch you made when fastening off neatly
Round 43: sc in the same st and the next 17 sts. Sc in the left leg in the 10th st after the 'new' st you made when fastening off, sc in the next 17 sts of the left leg. ch1, then make a slip stitch into the first st of this round
Round 44: sc in the stitch you've just slipped, sc in the next 36 sts
Round 45: (2 rounds) sc in each st (again don't crochet into the slipped stitch)
Round 46: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc12, 2sc in the last st (40sc)
Round 47: sc8, sc2tog, sc3, 2sc in each of the next 2sts sc9, 2sc in each of the next 2sts, sc3, sc2tog, sc9 (42sc)
Rounds 48 - 49: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Rounds 50 - 51: (I have joined two rounds together since there is a sc2tog in the middle of them) sc9, sc2tog, sc21, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc12, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc12 (35sc)
Round 52: sc in the first 14 sts, sc2tog, sc2, skip the next 3sts, then sc in the following 2sts, sc2tog, sc12 (30sc)
Round 53: sc in each st
Round 54: sc7, sc2tog, sc13, sc2tog, sc in the last 6sts (28sc)
Rounds 55 - 56: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 57: sc7, sc2tog, sc11, sc2tog, sc in the last 6 sts (26sc)
Rounds 58 - 61: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 62: sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc5 (28sc)
Round 63: sc in each st
Round 64: sc8, 2sc in the next st, sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc5 (30sc)
Round 65: sc in each st
Round 66: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc6 (32sc)
Round 67: sc29, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (33sc)
Round 68: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc25 (36sc)
Rounds 69 - 70: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 71: sc12, 2sc in the next st, sc16, 3sc in the next st, sc2, sc2tog, sc2 (37sc)
Round 72: sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc21 (34sc)
Fasten off neatly
For the thumb (make 2):
with a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Round 1: sc in each st
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc3 (5sc)
Round 3: sc in each st
Round 4: 2sc in the first st, sc4 (6sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: 2sc in the first st, sc5 (7sc)
Fasten off
For the pinky finger (make 2):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 4: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the ring and index finger (make 4 in total):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 5: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the middle finger (make 2):
With a 1.5mm hook make a magic loop with 4sc
Rounds 1 - 6: (6 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the left hands/ arm:
Still using a 2.5mm hook rejoin yarn to one of the stitches on the pinky finger.
Round 1: sc in the same st and the next 2 sts, sc into one of the stitches on the ring finger, sc into one of the stitches of the middle finger, sc into one of the stitches of the index finger, sc in the next 2 sts of the index finger, sc into the middle finger in the 2nd st from where you last crocheted, sc into the ring finger in the 2nd st from where you last crocheted, make a slip stitch into the first st of this round (10sc)
 |
| Join yarn to the stitch marked in red then crochet around the stitches shown above in clockwise order (roughly in order of the colour of the rainbow) After you crochet into the stitch shown in pink make a slip stitch into the red stitch. |
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each of these 10 sts (again make sure you don't sc in the slipped stitch)
Round 4: sc4, sc3tog, sc5 (12sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: sc4, sc3tog, sc5 (10sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (8sc)
At this point sew the thumb to the side of the hand
Rounds 8 - 10: (3 rounds) sc in each st
switch to a 2mm hook
Rounds 11 - 12: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (10sc)
Round 14: sc in each st
Round 15: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Rounds 16 - 17: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 18: sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc (14sc)
Rounds 19 - 20: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc4, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc (12sc)
Round 22: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Round 23 - 24: (2 rounds) sc in each st
change to a 2.5mm hook
Rounds 25 - 28: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 29: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Round 30: sc in each st
Round 31: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc9 (13sc)
Round 32: sc in each st
Round 33: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc3 (15sc)
Round 34: sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the right hands/ arm:
This is very similar to the left arm, but with a few differences (particularly around the upper arm). Differences are shown in bold and underlined
Round 1: Attach the fingers together exactly as you did for the left arm (10sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each of these 10 sts (again make sure you don't sc in the slipped stitch)
Round 4: sc6, sc3tog, sc3 (12sc)
Round 5: sc in each st
Round 6: sc7, sc3tog, sc2 (10sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (8sc)
At this point sew the thumb to the side of the hand
Rounds 8 - 10: (3 rounds) sc in each st
switch to a 2mm hook
Rounds 11 - 12: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 13: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (10sc)
Round 14: sc in each st
Round 15: sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (12sc)
Rounds 16 - 17: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 18: sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc (14sc)
Rounds 19 - 20: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Round 21: sc4, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc (12sc)
Round 22: sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc (10sc)
Round 23 - 24: (2 rounds) sc in each st
change to a 2.5mm hook
Rounds 25 - 28: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 29: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc4, 2sc in the next st, sc1 (12sc)
Round 30: sc in each st
Round 31: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (13sc)
Round 32: sc in each st
Round 33: sc3, 2sc in the next st, sc6, 2sc in the next st, sc2 (15sc)
Round 34: sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the shoulders and neck:
Round 1: join to 2nd st from makeshift st on the body. Sc in this st and the next 13sts. Sc in the 5th st from the makeshift st on the right arm, sc in the next 11sts, sc in the 4th st from the last st you crocheted into in the body , sc in the next 13sts, sc in the 8th st from the makeshift st on the left arm, sc in the next 11sts, slip the 4th st from the last st you crocheted into on the body, (which is also the first st of this round) (51sc)
Round 2: sc in the same st and the next 50 sts
Rounds 3 - 5: (3 rounds) sc in each st (don't crochet into the slipped stitch)
Round 6: sc19, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc4 (46sc)
Round 7: sc26, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc12 (44sc)
Round 8: sc7, sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog 3 times, sc15, sc2tog 3 times (37sc)
Round 9: (This is slightly more than one round) sc15, sc2tog 3 times, sc4, sc3tog, sc4, sc2tog 3 times (29sc)
Round 10: (Again slightly more than 1 round) sc in the back loop only for 6 sts, sc in both loops for 2 sts, sc in the back loop only for 6sts, sc2tog twice, sc8, sc2tog twice (25sc)
Round 11: sc11, sc3tog, twice, sc5, sc3tog (19sc)
Round 12: sc3tog, sc16 (17sc)
Rounds 13 - 15: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Row 15.5: (this is a very small row of stitches used to get the next few rows in the next place) sc4, turn
Row 16: slip11. Ch1, turn
Row 17: (crochet this round over the top of the slipped stitches (PICTURE) sc9, sc2tog, turn (10sc)
Row 18: slip 10. ch1, turn
Row 19: sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, turn (8sc)
Row 20: slip8. Ch1, turn
Row 21: sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog (6sc)
Fasten off
For the head:
ch3
Round 1: sc in 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next loop (the 2nd chain st you made round), 3sc in the next chain st, 2sc in the back of the 2nd st you made, 2sc in the back of the 3rd chain st you made (the first chain st you crocheted into) (6sc)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 3: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep 6 times to end (18sc)
Round 4: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep 6 times to end (24sc)
Round 5: (sc7, 2sc in the next st) 3 times (27sc)
Round 6 - 10: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 11: sc, sc2tog, sc in the back loop of the next st, sc3 in the back loop of the next st, sc in the back loop of the next st, sc through both loops of the next st, sc in the back loop of the next st, sc3 in the back loop of the next st, sc in the back loop of the next st, sc2tog through both loops, sc15 in both loops (29sc)
Round 12: sc3, sc3tog, sc3, sc3tog, sc17 (25sc)
Round 13: sc5, 2sc in the next st, sc19 (26sc)
Rounds 14 - 15: (this is two rounds since there is a sc2tog in the minute) sc 25, sc2tog, sc13, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog (24sc)
Round 16: (this is slightly less than 1 round) sc6 sc4tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc6 (20sc)
Round 17: sc3tog, sc10, sc3tog, sc4, (16sc)
Round 18: sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc4 (14sc)
Round 18: sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc4 (14sc)
Round 19: sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc3 (12sc)
stuff
Round 20: sc2tog, sc, slip 4, sc2tog, hdc3(10sc)
Round 21: sc2tog, slip 5, hdc3, (9sc)
slip 1
Fasten off
sew up the chin
For the right ear:
ch3
Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, 2sc in the next chain st. Ch2, turn
Row 2: 2hdc in the first st, sc2, 3hdc in the last st
Fasten off
For the left ear:
ch3
Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, 2sc in the next chain st. Ch2, turn
Row 2: 3hdc in the first st, sc2, 2hdc in the last st
Fasten off
Sew the ears onto the head
you then need to do some shaping on the face to make it resemble David Tennant's more.
First put some stitches through the nose to shape it. start from the ridge of the nose and the work your way down to finish with shaping the nostrils.
When you are happy (enough) with your nose move on to shaping the rest of the face. Don't fret too much if your nose doesn't look exactly right as this is not the defining feature of his face - you can always come back to it if you feel you need to. I went next to the eye sockets to try to deepen them. Do this by making repeated stitches through the head from the eye socket to the back of the head. Pull the thread tight. when you the return the needle to the eye socket try to push it back through the exact place your needle emerged from so that you don't create dents in the back of the head.
Next embroider in the eyes. Using white 4ply yarn embroider in the whites of the eyes (Image 1), then use the brown embroidery thread to embroider the iris over the top. I embroidered a dark brown ring for the outline (Image 2), then filled this in with medium brown embroidery yarn (Image 3). I then used black embroidery thread to embroider the pupil in the centre of the eye over the top of the iris (Image 4).
Next start on the eyebrows. Starting near the nose, embroider the eyebrows on using brown yarn. Try to make them resemble David Tennant's as much as possible
For the mouth:
Embroider the mouth onto the face using the pink and black embroidery thread. Find a picture of David Tennant with a smile you want to replicate and try to copy it. Don't obsess too much over this (remember that mouths usually look really weird when you look at them on their own but look fine when you don't scrutinize them)
For the hair:
The hair requires several different steps which can't easily be done separately.
Build it up slowly over time - it will look kind of ridiculous at first but just keep adding bits here and there, paying attention to the reference images shown below, and it should end up looking great.
Step 1 - cutting the strands of hair
It's very difficult to guess how much hair you need to add, so I suggest you cut a few bundles to start with and then keep making more of them as you run out.
Cut two pieces of cardboard - one about 4cm long and the other about 7cm long. Wind yarn brown 4ply yarn around the length of these many times to make a bundle, then cut the bundle at both ends to make lots of 4cm or 7cm long pieces.
Step 2 - The sideburns
I tried to do these before I added the hair as they are quite a defining feature, but I found I had to tweak them and add to them as the hair developed.
Embroider the sideburns on using the brown 4ply yarn
Step 3 - the hair of the top of the head
This step really overlapped with step 4 (adding the shorter hair to the back and sides of the head), but I chose to add this first because I find it easier to go from the top downwards.
Using the what I think is the standard method of adding amigurumi hair (fold the strand in half, thread the looped end through a stitch non the head and loop the ends through (a video can be found here)), begin to attach the 7cm strands of hair to the top of the head, brushing it forwards as you do so to mimic David Tennant's hairstyle.
Step 4 - Adding the hair to the sides and back of the head
add the short sections of hair to the back of the head in the same way as you attached the long strands before. This is quite fiddly and if you can't manage it you may want to cut slightly longer sections and trim them down more later. Add these all the way down the head and the neck section to the nape of the neck.
Step 5 - cutting the hair and securing it in place
This is the only step that should really be carried out in its order (i.e. this step can only really be carried out once all the other steps are finished)
Use scissors to cut the hair to the correct length, and then use a needle and some brown thread to sew some stitches over the top of the hair - particularly where you have cut it very short at the back - to keep it in place. Push the front hair forwards a little to make it resemble David Tennant's more.
For the suit:
First put some stitches through the nose to shape it. start from the ridge of the nose and the work your way down to finish with shaping the nostrils.
When you are happy (enough) with your nose move on to shaping the rest of the face. Don't fret too much if your nose doesn't look exactly right as this is not the defining feature of his face - you can always come back to it if you feel you need to. I went next to the eye sockets to try to deepen them. Do this by making repeated stitches through the head from the eye socket to the back of the head. Pull the thread tight. when you the return the needle to the eye socket try to push it back through the exact place your needle emerged from so that you don't create dents in the back of the head.
Next embroider in the eyes. Using white 4ply yarn embroider in the whites of the eyes (Image 1), then use the brown embroidery thread to embroider the iris over the top. I embroidered a dark brown ring for the outline (Image 2), then filled this in with medium brown embroidery yarn (Image 3). I then used black embroidery thread to embroider the pupil in the centre of the eye over the top of the iris (Image 4).
 |
| Image 1 |
 |
| Image 2 |
 |
| Image 3 |
 |
| Image 4 |
Next start on the eyebrows. Starting near the nose, embroider the eyebrows on using brown yarn. Try to make them resemble David Tennant's as much as possible
 |
| A reference for the eyebrows |
For the mouth:
Embroider the mouth onto the face using the pink and black embroidery thread. Find a picture of David Tennant with a smile you want to replicate and try to copy it. Don't obsess too much over this (remember that mouths usually look really weird when you look at them on their own but look fine when you don't scrutinize them)
 |
| This is the smile it tried to re-create |
For the hair:
The hair requires several different steps which can't easily be done separately.
Build it up slowly over time - it will look kind of ridiculous at first but just keep adding bits here and there, paying attention to the reference images shown below, and it should end up looking great.
Step 1 - cutting the strands of hair
It's very difficult to guess how much hair you need to add, so I suggest you cut a few bundles to start with and then keep making more of them as you run out.
Cut two pieces of cardboard - one about 4cm long and the other about 7cm long. Wind yarn brown 4ply yarn around the length of these many times to make a bundle, then cut the bundle at both ends to make lots of 4cm or 7cm long pieces.
Step 2 - The sideburns
I tried to do these before I added the hair as they are quite a defining feature, but I found I had to tweak them and add to them as the hair developed.
Embroider the sideburns on using the brown 4ply yarn
 |
| This picture was taken after a started adding some of the hair to the top of the head |
Step 3 - the hair of the top of the head
This step really overlapped with step 4 (adding the shorter hair to the back and sides of the head), but I chose to add this first because I find it easier to go from the top downwards.
Using the what I think is the standard method of adding amigurumi hair (fold the strand in half, thread the looped end through a stitch non the head and loop the ends through (a video can be found here)), begin to attach the 7cm strands of hair to the top of the head, brushing it forwards as you do so to mimic David Tennant's hairstyle.
Step 4 - Adding the hair to the sides and back of the head
add the short sections of hair to the back of the head in the same way as you attached the long strands before. This is quite fiddly and if you can't manage it you may want to cut slightly longer sections and trim them down more later. Add these all the way down the head and the neck section to the nape of the neck.
Step 5 - cutting the hair and securing it in place
This is the only step that should really be carried out in its order (i.e. this step can only really be carried out once all the other steps are finished)
Use scissors to cut the hair to the correct length, and then use a needle and some brown thread to sew some stitches over the top of the hair - particularly where you have cut it very short at the back - to keep it in place. Push the front hair forwards a little to make it resemble David Tennant's more.
For the suit:
For the trousers:
For the trouser legs (make 2):
With a 2mm hook and medium blue dk yarn ch19
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in every following chain st to make a loop (19sc)
Rounds 2 - 4: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Round 3: (sc5, 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc in the last st (22sc)
Rounds 4 - 24: (21 rounds) sc in each st
Round 25: (sc 6, 2sc) 3 times, sc in the last st (25sc)
Rounds 26 - 34: (9 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
For the crotch section:
Round 35: rejoin yarn to one stitch on one of the legs. Sc in this st and the next 20sts. Next sc in one of the stitches of the other trouser leg, then sc in the next 20 sts of this leg. This should join the two trouser legs together. (42sc)
Round 36: sc in the first st you crocheted in the last round, sc40, 2sc in the last st of this round (this should form a loop) (43sc)
Round 37: 2sc in the first st , sc40, 2sc in the next st, sc (45sc)
Round 38: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc43 (46sc)
Rounds 39 - 44: (6 rounds) sc in each st
Round 45: sc3tog, sc43 (44sc)
Rounds 46 - 50: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 51: (sc5, sc2tog) 6 times , sc2 (38sc)
Sew a button onto the waistband of the trousers opposite the buttonhole
For the jacket:
ch47
Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc44, 2sc in the last chain st. ch1, turn (48sc)
Row 2: 2sc, sc46, 2sc. ch1, turn (50sc)
Row 3: 2sc, sc48, 2sc. ch1, turn (52sc)
Row 4: 2sc, sc50, 2s. ch1, turnc (54sc)
Rows 5 - 13: (9 rows) sc54. ch1, turn
Row 14: sc10, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc10. ch1, turn (51sc)
Row 15: sc10, sc2tog, sc12 sc3tog, sc12, sc2tog, sc10. ch1, turn (47sc)
Row 16: sc ch2, skip2, sc8, sc2tog, sc22, sc2tog, sc10. ch1, turn (45sc)
Row 17: sc43, 2sc in the hole made by the chain sts, sc. ch1, turn
Row 18: sc10, sc2tog, sc22, sc2tog, sc9. ch1, turn (43sc)
Row 19: sc43. ch1, turn
Row 20: sc9, sc2tog, sc22, sc2tog, sc8. ch1, turn (41sc)
Row 21: sc8 sc2tog, sc20, sc2tog, sc9. ch1, turn (39sc)
Row 22: sc, ch2, skip2, sc36. ch1, turn
Row 23: sc36 , 2sc in the hole made by the ch2, sc. ch1, turn
Rows 24 - 26: (3 rows) sc39. ch1, turn
Row 27: sc10, 2sc in the next st, sc18, 2sc in the next st, sc9. ch1, turn (41sc)
Row 28: sc, ch2, skip2, sc38. ch1, turn
Row 29: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc20, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the hole made by the chain 2, sc. ch1, turn (43sc)
Row 30: sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc20, 2sc in the next st, sc10. ch1, turn (45sc)
Row 31: sc42. ch1, turn
Row 32: sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc22, 2sc in the next st, sc10. ch1, turn (47sc)
Row 33: sc44, ch2, skip2 from base of chain, sc. ch1, turn
Row 34: sc2tog, sc43 ,sc2tog. ch1, turn (45sc)
Row 35: sc8. ch1, turn (8sc)|
Row 36: sc6, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 37: sc7. ch1, turnRows 24 - 26: (3 rows) sc39. ch1, turn
Row 27: sc10, 2sc in the next st, sc18, 2sc in the next st, sc9. ch1, turn (41sc)
Row 28: sc, ch2, skip2, sc38. ch1, turn
Row 29: sc9, 2sc in the next st, sc20, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the hole made by the chain 2, sc. ch1, turn (43sc)
Row 30: sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc20, 2sc in the next st, sc10. ch1, turn (45sc)
Row 31: sc42. ch1, turn
Row 32: sc11, 2sc in the next st, sc22, 2sc in the next st, sc10. ch1, turn (47sc)
Row 33: sc44, ch2, skip2 from base of chain, sc. ch1, turn
Row 34: sc2tog, sc43 ,sc2tog. ch1, turn (45sc)
Row 35: sc8. ch1, turn (8sc)|
Row 36: sc6, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 38: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Rows 39 - 40: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 41: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Rows 42 - 45: (4 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 46: slip1, sc2, hdc1, dc1
Fasten off
Rejoin yarn top the 9th st from the other end of the large section on row 34
Row 35: sc in this st and the next 8sts. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 36: sc2tog, sc7. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 37: sc8. ch1, turn
Row 38: sc2tog, sc6. ch1, turn (7sc)
Rows 39 - 40: (2 rows) sc7. ch1, turn
Row 41: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Rows 42 - 43: (2 rows) sc6. ch1, turn
Row 44: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 45: sc5. ch2, turn
Row 46: dc, hdc, sc2, slip
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to row 34 to the 5th st from the right of this section (from David Tennant's perspective)
Row 35: sc in this st and the next 19 sts. ch1, turn (20sc)
Row 36: sc2tog, sc16, sc2tog. ch1, turn (18sc)
Row 37: sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog. ch1, turn (16sc)
Row 38: sc2tog, sc12, sc2tog. ch1, turn (14sc)
Rows 39 - 40: (2 rows) sc14. ch1, turn
Row 41: 2sc in the first st, sc12, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (16sc)
Rows 42 - 43: (2 rows) sc16. ch1, turn
Row 44: 2sc in the first st, sc14, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (18sc)
Rows 45 - 48: (4 rows) sc18. ch1, turn
Row 49: 2sc in the first st, sc16, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (20sc)
Row 50: 2sc in the first st, sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 51: sc2tog, sc3, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Fasten off
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 6th st from the other side of row 20
Row 21: sc2tog, sc3, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Sew the shoulder seams together
For the left sleeve:
join yarn to the left armhole (from David Tennant's perspective) to the join between the bottom of the armhole and the front section
Round 1: sc36 around the edge of the armhole
Row 2: sc6, sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc10, slip1.ch1, turn
Row 3: skip the first slip stitch, slip3, sc5, sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, sc4, slip3. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip the first slip stitch, slip2, sc3, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc3, slip2. ch1, turn
Row 5: skip the first st then sc29 around the edge of the armhole. Slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn
Row 6: slip the slipped st and the next 13 sts. sc7, sc2tog, sc6, slip1. ch1, turn.
Row 7: skip the first st, sc28 around the outside of the armhole, slip the first st of this round
slip1,
Rows 8 - 10: (3 rows) ch1, turn, sc in the slipped st, sc27, slip the first st of this round (28sc)
Row 11: ch1, turn, sc in the slipped st, sc5, sc2tog, sc20, slip the first st of this round (27sc)
Row 12: ch1, turn. sc27, slip the first st of this round (27sc)
Row 13: ch1, turn, sc14, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, slip the first st of this round (25sc)
Row 14: ch1, turn, sc in the slipped st, sc24, slip the first st this round
Row 15: ch1, turn, sc, sc2tog, sc12, sc2tog, sc8, slip in the first st of this round (23sc)
Rows 16 - 28: (13 rows) ch1, turn, sc23, slip the first st of this round.
Row 29: turn, slip 23
Row 30: sc23
Row 31: slip 23
Row 32: sc23
Row 33: slip 23
Row 34: sc23
Row 35: slip 23
Row 36: sc23
Fasten off
For the right sleeve:Row 30: sc23
Row 31: slip 23
Row 32: sc23
Row 33: slip 23
Row 34: sc23
Row 35: slip 23
Row 36: sc23
Fasten off
join yarn to the right armhole in the opposite position that you attached it before (the place where the front edge meets the front bottom bit)
Round 1: sc36 around this armhole
Row 2: slip8 sc10, sc2tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc6. slip1, ch1, turn
Row 3: skip1, slip5, sc4, sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, sc5, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip1, slip2, sc3, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc3, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 5: skip1, sc29 around the edge of the armhole. slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn
Row 6: (this is a little more than one round) slip the slipped st and the next 16sts, sc6, sc2tog, sc7, slip1, ch1, turn
Rows 7 - 9: (3 rounds) sc in the slipped st, sc27, slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn (28sc)
Row 10: sc20, sc2tog, sc6. slip the first st of this round. ch1, turn (27sc)
Row 11: sc in the slipped st, sc26, slip the first st of this round, ch1, turn (27sc)
Row 12: sc12, sc2tog, sc11, sc2tog, slip the first st of this round, ch1, turn (25sc)
Row 13: sc in the slipped st, sc24, slip the first st of this round, ch1, turn (25sc)
Row 14: sc10, sc2tog, sc11, sc2tog, slip the first st of this round, ch1, turn (23sc)
Rows 15 - 28: (14 rows) ch1, turn, sc23, slip the first st of this round.
Row 29: turn, slip 23
Row 30: sc23
Row 31: slip 23
Row 32: sc23
Row 33: slip 23
Row 34: sc23
Row 35: slip 23
Row 36: sc23
Fasten off
join yarn to the st just above the buttonhole on the jacket.
Row 1: Sc in this st then sc 43 around the neckline, finishing in the st opposite where you started
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 'loop behind the back loop' (which is in this instance at the front) of the first st of the last round (this is called the 'third loop' in the diagram below)
Row 2: (work this whole row in the loop behind the back loop) slip the next st after where you fastened on, sc3, hdc2, dc2, ch3, slip the same st you made your dc into, slip the next st, ch3, dc in to the same st you made your last slip st into, dc2, hdc20, dc3, ch3, slip the same st you made your dc into, slip the next st, ch3, dc into the st you made the last slip st into, dc, hdc2, sc3, slip2.Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 57th st before the last slip st you made before fastening off (counting chain sts)
Row 3: sc in the next st after where you fastened on, sc2, hdc2, dc2, ch4, sc in the 5th countable st from the base of this chain (including chain sts) (see diagram below if you are confused), ch4, dc in the 5th countable st from where you made the sc (again counting chain sts), dc2, hdc9, 2hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the following st, hdc9, dc3, ch4, sc in the 5th countable st from the base of this chain (including chain sts), ch4, dc in the 5th countable st from where you made the sc (again counting chain sts), dc, hdc2, sc3, slip1.
Fasten off
You may want to put a few stitches in the collar to keep it lying flat.
For the top pocket:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 4 sts (5sc)
Rounds 2 - 4: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc5
Fasten off
Sew this to the upper left side of the jacket
For the top pocket flap:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 4 sts (5sc)
Round 2: ch1, turn. sc5
Fasten off
For the bottom pocket flaps:
ch8
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 6 sts (7sc)
Round 2: ch1, turn. sc7
Fasten off
For the converse:
with white dk yarn and a 2mm hook
ch12
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next 9 chain sts. 3sc in the last chain st of the row, then sc in the back each of the previous 9 sts. Finally make 2sc into the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (24sc)
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc9, 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc9, 2sc in each of the last 2sts (30sc)
Round 3: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) twice (36sc)
Fasten off neatly
rejoin yarn to the loop behind the back loop of the 6th st before the 'new' stitch you made when fastening off neatly
Round 4: sc in the loop behind the back loop of every stitch
Round 5: sc through both loops of each st (36sc)
fasten off neatly
with a 1.5mm hook rejoin yarn to the back loop of the stitch before the 'new' stitch you just made
Row 6: (work in only the back loop of this st for this row) sc4tog between this st and the next 3 sts, sc3tog, sc4tog. ch1, turn
Row 7: in both loops sc3tog
Fasten off
(work in only the back loop of each st in this round) with a 2mm hook join red yarn to the same st as the last st you made the sc4tog into
Row 6: sc in this st and the next 26sts, finishing in the first st you made the initial sc4tog in. ch1, turn (27sc)
Row 7: sc2tog, sc23, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (25sc)
Row 8: sc3tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc9, sc3tog. Ch1, turn (20sc)
Row 9: sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (17sc)
Row 10: sc2tog, sc5, sc3tog, sc5, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (13sc)
Rows 11 - 13: (3 rounds) sc in each st. Ch1, turn (13sc)
Fasten off
For the tongue:
with 1.5mm hook sc6 across the front white bit of the shoe. ch1, turn
Rows 8 - 17: (10 rows) sc in each st
Fasten off
For the eyelets:
If you don't want to make these they aren't necessary - you can just thread the shoelaces straight through the holes made by the crochet, but I feel they add an extra touch to the doll.
With silver embroidery thread make repeated stitches around the outside of the holes where you are planning to thread your laces. I found it easier to get a good circle by pushing the blunt end of a small crochet hook through the hole whilst I did this to keep the hole in position whilst I sewed it in place.
For the soles:
using as sharpie trace onto a tough bit of plastic the shape of the sole of the shoe (inside the outer stitching on the sole).
Do this twice, then cut along the line you drew and place these pieces of plastic inside the sole of the shoe to keep it rigid.
If the plastic you are using isn't clear you will need to trace carefully around the outside of the boot, cut the piece of plastic out and then slowly trim it so it fits inside the shoe.
with white dk yarn and a 2mm hook
ch12
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next 9 chain sts. 3sc in the last chain st of the row, then sc in the back each of the previous 9 sts. Finally make 2sc into the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (24sc)
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc9, 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc9, 2sc in each of the last 2sts (30sc)
Round 3: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) twice (36sc)
Fasten off
Sew these to the bottom of the shoe on the inside, sandwiching the plastic piece in between this and the bottom of the shoe.
For the shoelaces (make 2):
cut three 45cm long strands of embroidery thread. Plait them together and knot each end, then thread this lace through the eyelets on the shoes. I found it easier to start plaiting from the middle to the end, then return to the middle and plait out to the other end (this meant I didn't end up starting off very loosely and get tighter and tighter as I went along)
For the shirt:
With white 4ply yarn and a 1.5mm hook fsc47. ch1, turn
Rows 1 - 30: (30 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 31: sc in the first 9sts. Ch1, turn (9sc)
Rows 32 - 33: (2 rows) sc in each of these 9sts
Row 34: slip 4, sc5, turn
Row 35: sc4, slip5. ch1, turn
Row 36: slip4, sc5, turn
Row 37: sc7, slip2. ch1, turn
Rows 38 - 39: (2 rows) sc in each of these 9 sts. ch1, turn
Row 40: sc7, slip 1. Ch1, turn
Row 41: skip the slipped st, slip the next 2 sts, sc in the last 5sts, ch1, turn
Row 42: 2sc in the first st, sc3. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 43: sc4, 2sc in the last st. (6sc)
Rows 44 - 46: (3 rows) ch1, turn, sc6.
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to row 30 to the 6th st from one of these sections you just made.
Row 31: sc in this st and the next 18sts. ch1, turn (19sc)
For the back yoke:
For the right sleeve:
this is pretty much the same as the left sleeve but there are some turns so you get the mirror image. As I did with the arms I have highlighted where the pattern is different
rejoin yarn to the 57th st before the last slip st you made before fastening off (counting chain sts)
Row 3: sc in the next st after where you fastened on, sc2, hdc2, dc2, ch4, sc in the 5th countable st from the base of this chain (including chain sts) (see diagram below if you are confused), ch4, dc in the 5th countable st from where you made the sc (again counting chain sts), dc2, hdc9, 2hdc in the next st, 2hdc in the following st, hdc9, dc3, ch4, sc in the 5th countable st from the base of this chain (including chain sts), ch4, dc in the 5th countable st from where you made the sc (again counting chain sts), dc, hdc2, sc3, slip1.
Fasten off
You may want to put a few stitches in the collar to keep it lying flat.
For the top pocket:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 4 sts (5sc)
Rounds 2 - 4: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc5
Fasten off
Sew this to the upper left side of the jacket
For the top pocket flap:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 4 sts (5sc)
Round 2: ch1, turn. sc5
Fasten off
For the bottom pocket flaps:
ch8
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 6 sts (7sc)
Round 2: ch1, turn. sc7
Fasten off
For the converse:
with white dk yarn and a 2mm hook
ch12
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next 9 chain sts. 3sc in the last chain st of the row, then sc in the back each of the previous 9 sts. Finally make 2sc into the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (24sc)
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc9, 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc9, 2sc in each of the last 2sts (30sc)
Round 3: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) twice (36sc)
Fasten off neatly
rejoin yarn to the loop behind the back loop of the 6th st before the 'new' stitch you made when fastening off neatly
 |
| Picture showing the loop behind the back loop |
Round 5: sc through both loops of each st (36sc)
fasten off neatly
with a 1.5mm hook rejoin yarn to the back loop of the stitch before the 'new' stitch you just made
Row 6: (work in only the back loop of this st for this row) sc4tog between this st and the next 3 sts, sc3tog, sc4tog. ch1, turn
Row 7: in both loops sc3tog
Fasten off
(work in only the back loop of each st in this round) with a 2mm hook join red yarn to the same st as the last st you made the sc4tog into
Row 6: sc in this st and the next 26sts, finishing in the first st you made the initial sc4tog in. ch1, turn (27sc)
Row 7: sc2tog, sc23, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (25sc)
Row 8: sc3tog, sc8, sc2tog, sc9, sc3tog. Ch1, turn (20sc)
Row 9: sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog, sc7, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (17sc)
Row 10: sc2tog, sc5, sc3tog, sc5, sc2tog. Ch1, turn (13sc)
Rows 11 - 13: (3 rounds) sc in each st. Ch1, turn (13sc)
Fasten off
For the tongue:
with 1.5mm hook sc6 across the front white bit of the shoe. ch1, turn
Rows 8 - 17: (10 rows) sc in each st
Fasten off
For the eyelets:
If you don't want to make these they aren't necessary - you can just thread the shoelaces straight through the holes made by the crochet, but I feel they add an extra touch to the doll.
With silver embroidery thread make repeated stitches around the outside of the holes where you are planning to thread your laces. I found it easier to get a good circle by pushing the blunt end of a small crochet hook through the hole whilst I did this to keep the hole in position whilst I sewed it in place.
For the soles:
using as sharpie trace onto a tough bit of plastic the shape of the sole of the shoe (inside the outer stitching on the sole).
Do this twice, then cut along the line you drew and place these pieces of plastic inside the sole of the shoe to keep it rigid.
If the plastic you are using isn't clear you will need to trace carefully around the outside of the boot, cut the piece of plastic out and then slowly trim it so it fits inside the shoe.
with white dk yarn and a 2mm hook
ch12
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next 9 chain sts. 3sc in the last chain st of the row, then sc in the back each of the previous 9 sts. Finally make 2sc into the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (24sc)
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc9, 2sc in each of the next 3sts, sc9, 2sc in each of the last 2sts (30sc)
Round 3: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc9, (sc, 2sc in the next st) twice (36sc)
Fasten off
Sew these to the bottom of the shoe on the inside, sandwiching the plastic piece in between this and the bottom of the shoe.
For the shoelaces (make 2):
cut three 45cm long strands of embroidery thread. Plait them together and knot each end, then thread this lace through the eyelets on the shoes. I found it easier to start plaiting from the middle to the end, then return to the middle and plait out to the other end (this meant I didn't end up starting off very loosely and get tighter and tighter as I went along)
For the shirt:
With white 4ply yarn and a 1.5mm hook fsc47. ch1, turn
Rows 1 - 30: (30 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 31: sc in the first 9sts. Ch1, turn (9sc)
Rows 32 - 33: (2 rows) sc in each of these 9sts
Row 34: slip 4, sc5, turn
Row 35: sc4, slip5. ch1, turn
Row 36: slip4, sc5, turn
Row 37: sc7, slip2. ch1, turn
Rows 38 - 39: (2 rows) sc in each of these 9 sts. ch1, turn
Row 40: sc7, slip 1. Ch1, turn
Row 41: skip the slipped st, slip the next 2 sts, sc in the last 5sts, ch1, turn
Row 42: 2sc in the first st, sc3. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 43: sc4, 2sc in the last st. (6sc)
Rows 44 - 46: (3 rows) ch1, turn, sc6.
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 9th st from the other side of row 30
Row 31: sc in each st and the next 8sts. ch1, turn
Rows 32 - 33: (2 rounds) sc9. ch1, turn
Row 34: sc5, slip 4. turn
Row 35: slip 5, sc4. ch1, turn
Row 36: sc5, slip4, turn
Row 37: slip 2, sc7. ch1, turn
Rows 38 - 39: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Row 40: slip2, sc7
Row 41: sc5, slip1. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 42: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc3, 2sc in thew next st. ch1, turn
Row 43: 2sc in the first st, sc4. (6sc)
Rows 44 - 46: (3 rounds) ch1, turn, sc6
Fasten off
Row 34: sc5, slip 4. turn
Row 35: slip 5, sc4. ch1, turn
Row 36: sc5, slip4, turn
Row 37: slip 2, sc7. ch1, turn
Rows 38 - 39: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Row 40: slip2, sc7
Row 41: sc5, slip1. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 42: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc3, 2sc in thew next st. ch1, turn
Row 43: 2sc in the first st, sc4. (6sc)
Rows 44 - 46: (3 rounds) ch1, turn, sc6
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to row 30 to the 6th st from one of these sections you just made.
Row 31: sc in this st and the next 18sts. ch1, turn (19sc)
Row 32: sc2tog sc15, sc2tog. ch1, turn
Rows 33 - 36: (4 rounds) sc in each st
fasten off
For the back yoke:
with a 1mm hook and white 4ply yarn ch8
Row 1: sc in the 2nd st from hook, sc in the next 6 chain sts. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 2: sc6, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc7. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 4: sc8, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (10sc)
Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc9. ch1, turn (11sc)
Rows 6 - 7: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 8: sc9, sc2tog. ch1, turn
Rows 9 - 10: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 11: Sc7, slip3, turn
Row 12: slip5, sc4. ch1, turn
Row 13: sc7, slip3. ch1, turn
Rows 14 - 15: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 16: sc9, 2sc. ch1, turn
Rows 17 - 18: (2 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Rows 19: sc9, sc2tog. ch1, turn (10sc)
Row 20: sc2tog, sc8. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 21: sc7, sc2tog,. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 22: sc2tog, sc6. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 23: sc in each st, turn
Row 24: slip 7.
sc18 across the bottom (straight) section of this piece
Fasten off
Sew the yoke to the back section of the shirt
Sew the shoulder seams together
For the left sleeve:
join yarn to the left armhole (from David Tennant's perspective) to the join between the bottomsection of the left armhole and the middle section you crocheted up
Round 1: sc34 around the armhole
Row 2: slip7, sc24, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 3: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 22sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 20 sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Sew the yoke to the back section of the shirt
Sew the shoulder seams together
 |
| Join the bits connected by the arrow and sew them together |
For the left sleeve:
join yarn to the left armhole (from David Tennant's perspective) to the join between the bottomsection of the left armhole and the middle section you crocheted up
 |
| Sorry about the blurriness |
Round 1: sc34 around the armhole
Row 2: slip7, sc24, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 3: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 22sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 20 sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 5: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 9, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc9, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 6: skip the first st, slip the next 2sts, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc4, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 7: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc3, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 8: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc2, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc2.
Round 9: sc around the edge of the armhole (I'm sorry I can't remember how many sts you should make but it shouldn't matter all that much) then sc6, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 10: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc6, sc3tog, sc6, slip1
Row 11: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc5, sc2tog, sc5, slip1
Row 12: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc3tog, sc3
Row 13: sc19 around the edge of the armhole
Row 14: slip1. ch1, turn sc in each of these 19sts
Rounds 15 - 36: (22 rounds) sc in each st
Rounds 37 - 41: (5 rounds) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Fasten off
For the right sleeve:
this is pretty much the same as the left sleeve but there are some turns so you get the mirror image. As I did with the arms I have highlighted where the pattern is different
join yarn to the right armhole (from David Tennant's perspective) to the join between the bottom of the armhole and the front section (as you did for the other sleeve)
Round 1: sc34 around the armhole, turn
Row 2: slip7, sc24, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 3: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 22sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 20 sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 3: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 22sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 4: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 20 sts, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 5: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 9, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc9, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 6: skip the first st, slip the next 2sts, sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc4, slip the next st. ch1, turn
Row 7: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog, sc3, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 8: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc2, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc2.
Round 9: sc around the edge of the armhole as you did with the other arm, then sc6, slip1. ch1, turn
Row 10: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc6, sc3tog, sc6, slip1
Row 11: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc5, sc2tog, sc5, slip1
Row 12: skip the first st, slip the next st, sc in the next 3sts, sc3tog, sc3
Row 13: sc19 around the edge of the armhole
Row 14: slip1. ch1, turn sc in each of these 19sts, turn
Rounds 15 - 36: (22 rounds) sc in each st
Rounds 37 - 41: (5 rounds) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Fasten off
For the cuff:
ch20
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in every following loop, turn (19sc)
Row 2: slip19
Row 3: sc17. ch1, skip 1, sc1, turn
Row 4: slip 19
Row 5: sc19
Row 6: slip 19
Row 7: sc17. ch1, skip1, sc1
Row 8: slip19
Row 9: sc19
Fasten off
For the front placket (the bit you put the buttons on):
join yarn to the top of the left edge of the shirt (left from the doctor's point of view)
Row 1: sc 41 down this front left edge. turn
Row 2: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 3: sc, ch1, skip 1, (sc3, ch1, skip1) 9 times, sc3, turn
Row 4: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc41
Fasten off
join yarn to the bottom of the opposite side of the shirt
Row 1: sc41 up this side of the shirt (making sure the end of the row is opposite where you fastened on for the left edge), turn
Row 2: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 3: sc41, turn
Row 4: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc41
Fasten off
Sew the buttons on to the front of the shirt. Sew them on loosely then wind your thread around the thread holding the button in place, before fastening off by threading your needle through this bit behind the button.
This will raise the button up to allow it to go through the front of the shirt.
sew the cuffs to the end of the sleeve.
Sew buttons to the front
If you want to be able to do and undo the buttons more easily you can sew around the edge of each buttonhole kind of like you did with the eyelets on the shoes to open them up more.
For the collar:
Sew the four brown buttons onto the coat
Now you need to assemble the screwdriver
For the front placket (the bit you put the buttons on):
join yarn to the top of the left edge of the shirt (left from the doctor's point of view)
Row 1: sc 41 down this front left edge. turn
Row 2: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 3: sc, ch1, skip 1, (sc3, ch1, skip1) 9 times, sc3, turn
Row 4: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc41
Fasten off
join yarn to the bottom of the opposite side of the shirt
Row 1: sc41 up this side of the shirt (making sure the end of the row is opposite where you fastened on for the left edge), turn
Row 2: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 3: sc41, turn
Row 4: slip41. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc41
Fasten off
Sew the buttons on to the front of the shirt. Sew them on loosely then wind your thread around the thread holding the button in place, before fastening off by threading your needle through this bit behind the button.
This will raise the button up to allow it to go through the front of the shirt.
sew the cuffs to the end of the sleeve.
Sew buttons to the front
If you want to be able to do and undo the buttons more easily you can sew around the edge of each buttonhole kind of like you did with the eyelets on the shoes to open them up more.
For the collar:
rejoin the yarn to the top right of the shirt (again looking at it from David Tennant's perspective)
Row 1: sc40 around the neckline. ch1, turn
Row 2: sc2tog, sc16, sc3tog, sc17, sc2tog. ch1, turn (36sc)
Row 3: (do all of this round in only the front loop of each st) sc2tog, sc32, sc2tog, turn (33sc)
Row 4: slip33. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc2tog, sc29, sc2tog, turn (31sc)
Row 6: slip in each st. ch1, turn
Row 7: sc2tog, sc27, sc2tog (29sc)
Fasten off
ch26
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in every following loop, turn (25sc)
Row 2: slip25. ch1, turn
Row 3: (crochet over the top of the slip stitches into the stitch below as you have done previously) 2sc in the first st, sc23, 2sc in the last st, turn (27sc)
Row 4: slip27
Row 5: (again crochet over the top of the slip stitches) 2sc in the first st, sc25, 2sc in the last st (29sc)
Fasten off
Sew this second section you made onto the shirt in front of/ over the first section you made, with the fastening-off edges matching up.
For the pocket:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the following 4 chain sts (5sc)
Rows 2 - 5 (4 rows) ch1, turn. Sc in each st (5sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the left side of the shirt
For the tie:
With dark red 4ply yarn make a magic loop with 2sc. Don't join and ch1, turn
Row 1: 2sc in each of these two sts (4sc)
Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc2, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc4, 2sc in the last st (8sc)
Rows 4 - 8: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Row 9: sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (7sc)
Rows 10 - 13: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 14: sc2, sc2tog, sc3 (6sc)
Rows 15 - 18: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 19: sc2, sc2tog, sc2 (5sc)
Rows 20 - 23: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 24: sc, sc2tog, sc2 (4sc)
Rows 25 - 30: (6 rounds) sc in each st
Row 31: sc, sc2tog, sc (3sc)
Rows 32 - 41: (10 rounds) sc in each st
Row 42: sc2tog, sc (2sc)
Rows 43- 102: (60 rounds) sc in each st
Row 103: sc2tog
|Fasten off
For the back tab:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook,sc in every following loop (5sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the back of the tie around the 20th row
For the coat:
ch55
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st, sc in every following chain st. Ch1, turn (54sc)
Rows 2 - 33: (32 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 34: (sc9, sc2tog) 4 times, sc10. ch1, turn (50sc)
Rows 35 - 39: (5 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 40: sc9, sc2tog, (sc8, sc2tog) 3 times, sc9. ch1, turn (46sc)
Rows 41 - 45: (5 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 46: sc14, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc14. ch1, turn (44sc)
Rows 47 - 55: (9 rows) sc in each st. Ch1, turn
Row 56: sc2tog, sc6. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 57: sc7. ch1, turn
Row 58: sc2tog, sc5. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 59: sc6. ch1, turn
Row 60: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 61: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 62: sc4, 2sc in the next st (6sc)
Rows 63 - 65: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc6
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 8th st from the other side of row 55
Row 56: sc in this st and the next 5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 57: sc7. ch1, turn
Row 58: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 59: sc6. ch1, turn
Row 60: sc4, sc2tog. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 61: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 62: 2sc in the first st, sc4 (6sc)
Rows 63 - 65: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc6
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to row 55 in the fifth st after one of these sections you made
Row 56: sc in this st, sc19 (20sc)
Row 57: sc2tog, sc16, sc2tog (18sc)
Row 58: sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog (16sc)
Rows 59 - 62: (4 rows) sc16
Row 63: 2sc in the first st, sc14, 2sc in the last st (18sc)
Rows 64 - 66: (3 rows) sc18
Row 67: 2sc in the first st, sc16, 2sc in the last st (20sc)
Rows 68 - 71: (4 rows) sc20
Row 72: 2sc in the first st, sc3, sc2tog (6sc)
Fasten off
join yarn to row 71 to the 6th st from the other side of this section
Row 71: sc2tog between this same st and the next, sc3, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Fasten off
Sew the shoulder seams together as you did for the jacket
For the sleeves (make 2):
ch27
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in each of the next 25 loops. ch1, turn (26sc)
Rows 2 - 7: (6 rows) sc26. ch1, turn
Row 8: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc12. ch1, turn (27sc)
Rows 9 - 14: (6 rows) sc27t. ch1, turn
Row 15: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc13. ch1, turn (28sc)
Rows 16 - 21: (6 rows) sc28. ch1, turn
Row 22: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc14. ch1, turn (29sc)
Rows 23 - 27: (5 rows) sc29. ch1, turn
Row 28: sc14, 2sc in the next st, sc14. ch1, turn (30sc)
Rows 29 - 30: (2 rows) slip6, sc4, hdc10, sc4, slip6, turn
Rows 31 - 32: (2 rows) slip7, sc4, hdc8, sc4, slip7, turn
Rows 33 - 34: (2 rows) slip8, sc4, hdc6, sc4, slip8, turn
Row 35: slip3, sc4, hdc7, 2hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc7, sc4, slip3, turn
Row 36: slip 4. sc4. hdc16, sc4, slip4
Fasten off
Sew the side seams (don't worry if your stitching is terrible (as mine is) - it will be hidden on the underside of the sleeve)
Sew the sleeves to the armholes
For the collar:
join to the end of the 37th row of left side
Row 1: sc71 around to 37th row of right side
Fasten off
join yarn to the loop behind the back loop of the first st of last row (as you did for the jacket)
Row 2: (work only in the loop behind the back loop for this next round) slip the st after the stitch where you fastened on, sc7, hdc7, dc7, ch3, slip the same st as the last dc, slip the next st, ch3, dc in the same st as the last slip st, dc4, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, dc5, ch3, slip the same st as the last dc, slip the next st, ch3, dc in the same st as the last slip st, dc6, hdc7, sc7, slip1
Fasten off
join yarn to both loops of the 83rd st before where you fatened off that last row (counting slip sts as a stitch)
Row 3: (crochet in both loops for this round) sc in the st after where you fastened on, sc, hdc3, 2hdc in the next st, hdc13, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of hdc you made (including the chain st (as you did for the jacket)), ch3, hdc in the 4th countable st from base of sc, hdc5, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc7, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of hdc, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of sc, hdc12, 2hdc in the next st, hdc3, sc2, slip1
Fasten off
Join yarn to the 10th st of the last row (counting the sc as the first st)
Row 4: sc in the next st, hdc9, ch2, slip the next 3 chain sts, slip the sc st, slip the next 3 chain sts, ch2, hdc5, sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2, hdc5, ch2, slip the next 3 chain sts, slip the sc st, slip the next 3 chain sts, ch2, hdc9, sc2, slip1
Fasten off
As with the jacket add a few stitches all the way round the collar to keep it in place and stop it curling up
For the pocket flaps (make 2):
ch10
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 8 chain sts (9sc)
Rows 2 - 3: (2 rows) ch1, turn. sc9
Sew these to the sides of the coat
For the inside pocket:
ch9
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 7 chain sts (8sc)
Rows 2 - 11: (10 rows) ch1, turn. sc8
Fasten off
sew this to the inside left edge of the coat
Row 2: sc2tog, sc16, sc3tog, sc17, sc2tog. ch1, turn (36sc)
Row 3: (do all of this round in only the front loop of each st) sc2tog, sc32, sc2tog, turn (33sc)
Row 4: slip33. ch1, turn
Row 5: sc2tog, sc29, sc2tog, turn (31sc)
Row 6: slip in each st. ch1, turn
Row 7: sc2tog, sc27, sc2tog (29sc)
Fasten off
ch26
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in every following loop, turn (25sc)
Row 2: slip25. ch1, turn
Row 3: (crochet over the top of the slip stitches into the stitch below as you have done previously) 2sc in the first st, sc23, 2sc in the last st, turn (27sc)
Row 4: slip27
Row 5: (again crochet over the top of the slip stitches) 2sc in the first st, sc25, 2sc in the last st (29sc)
Fasten off
Sew this second section you made onto the shirt in front of/ over the first section you made, with the fastening-off edges matching up.
For the pocket:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the following 4 chain sts (5sc)
Rows 2 - 5 (4 rows) ch1, turn. Sc in each st (5sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the left side of the shirt
For the tie:
With dark red 4ply yarn make a magic loop with 2sc. Don't join and ch1, turn
Row 1: 2sc in each of these two sts (4sc)
Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc2, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Row 3: 2sc in the first st, sc4, 2sc in the last st (8sc)
Rows 4 - 8: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Row 9: sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (7sc)
Rows 10 - 13: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 14: sc2, sc2tog, sc3 (6sc)
Rows 15 - 18: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 19: sc2, sc2tog, sc2 (5sc)
Rows 20 - 23: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Row 24: sc, sc2tog, sc2 (4sc)
Rows 25 - 30: (6 rounds) sc in each st
Row 31: sc, sc2tog, sc (3sc)
Rows 32 - 41: (10 rounds) sc in each st
Row 42: sc2tog, sc (2sc)
Rows 43- 102: (60 rounds) sc in each st
Row 103: sc2tog
|Fasten off
For the back tab:
ch6
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook,sc in every following loop (5sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the back of the tie around the 20th row
For the coat:
ch55
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st, sc in every following chain st. Ch1, turn (54sc)
Rows 2 - 33: (32 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 34: (sc9, sc2tog) 4 times, sc10. ch1, turn (50sc)
Rows 35 - 39: (5 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 40: sc9, sc2tog, (sc8, sc2tog) 3 times, sc9. ch1, turn (46sc)
Rows 41 - 45: (5 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 46: sc14, sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog, sc14. ch1, turn (44sc)
Rows 47 - 55: (9 rows) sc in each st. Ch1, turn
Row 56: sc2tog, sc6. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 57: sc7. ch1, turn
Row 58: sc2tog, sc5. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 59: sc6. ch1, turn
Row 60: sc2tog, sc4. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 61: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 62: sc4, 2sc in the next st (6sc)
Rows 63 - 65: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc6
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to the 8th st from the other side of row 55
Row 56: sc in this st and the next 5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 57: sc7. ch1, turn
Row 58: sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 59: sc6. ch1, turn
Row 60: sc4, sc2tog. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 61: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 62: 2sc in the first st, sc4 (6sc)
Rows 63 - 65: (3 rows) ch1, turn. sc6
Fasten off
rejoin yarn to row 55 in the fifth st after one of these sections you made
Row 56: sc in this st, sc19 (20sc)
Row 57: sc2tog, sc16, sc2tog (18sc)
Row 58: sc2tog, sc14, sc2tog (16sc)
Rows 59 - 62: (4 rows) sc16
Row 63: 2sc in the first st, sc14, 2sc in the last st (18sc)
Rows 64 - 66: (3 rows) sc18
Row 67: 2sc in the first st, sc16, 2sc in the last st (20sc)
Rows 68 - 71: (4 rows) sc20
Row 72: 2sc in the first st, sc3, sc2tog (6sc)
Fasten off
join yarn to row 71 to the 6th st from the other side of this section
Row 71: sc2tog between this same st and the next, sc3, 2sc in the last st (6sc)
Fasten off
Sew the shoulder seams together as you did for the jacket
For the sleeves (make 2):
ch27
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in each of the next 25 loops. ch1, turn (26sc)
Rows 2 - 7: (6 rows) sc26. ch1, turn
Row 8: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc12. ch1, turn (27sc)
Rows 9 - 14: (6 rows) sc27t. ch1, turn
Row 15: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc13. ch1, turn (28sc)
Rows 16 - 21: (6 rows) sc28. ch1, turn
Row 22: sc13, 2sc in the next st, sc14. ch1, turn (29sc)
Rows 23 - 27: (5 rows) sc29. ch1, turn
Row 28: sc14, 2sc in the next st, sc14. ch1, turn (30sc)
Rows 29 - 30: (2 rows) slip6, sc4, hdc10, sc4, slip6, turn
Rows 31 - 32: (2 rows) slip7, sc4, hdc8, sc4, slip7, turn
Rows 33 - 34: (2 rows) slip8, sc4, hdc6, sc4, slip8, turn
Row 35: slip3, sc4, hdc7, 2hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc7, sc4, slip3, turn
Row 36: slip 4. sc4. hdc16, sc4, slip4
Fasten off
Sew the side seams (don't worry if your stitching is terrible (as mine is) - it will be hidden on the underside of the sleeve)
Sew the sleeves to the armholes
For the collar:
join to the end of the 37th row of left side
Fasten off
join yarn to the loop behind the back loop of the first st of last row (as you did for the jacket)
Row 2: (work only in the loop behind the back loop for this next round) slip the st after the stitch where you fastened on, sc7, hdc7, dc7, ch3, slip the same st as the last dc, slip the next st, ch3, dc in the same st as the last slip st, dc4, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, dc5, ch3, slip the same st as the last dc, slip the next st, ch3, dc in the same st as the last slip st, dc6, hdc7, sc7, slip1
Fasten off
join yarn to both loops of the 83rd st before where you fatened off that last row (counting slip sts as a stitch)
Row 3: (crochet in both loops for this round) sc in the st after where you fastened on, sc, hdc3, 2hdc in the next st, hdc13, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of hdc you made (including the chain st (as you did for the jacket)), ch3, hdc in the 4th countable st from base of sc, hdc5, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc6, 2hdc in the next st, hdc7, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of hdc, ch3, sc in the 4th countable st from base of sc, hdc12, 2hdc in the next st, hdc3, sc2, slip1
Fasten off
Join yarn to the 10th st of the last row (counting the sc as the first st)
Row 4: sc in the next st, hdc9, ch2, slip the next 3 chain sts, slip the sc st, slip the next 3 chain sts, ch2, hdc5, sc2, 2sc in the next st, sc7, 2sc in the next st, sc2, hdc5, ch2, slip the next 3 chain sts, slip the sc st, slip the next 3 chain sts, ch2, hdc9, sc2, slip1
Fasten off
As with the jacket add a few stitches all the way round the collar to keep it in place and stop it curling up
For the pocket flaps (make 2):
ch10
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 8 chain sts (9sc)
Rows 2 - 3: (2 rows) ch1, turn. sc9
Sew these to the sides of the coat
For the inside pocket:
ch9
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 7 chain sts (8sc)
Rows 2 - 11: (10 rows) ch1, turn. sc8
Fasten off
sew this to the inside left edge of the coat
 |
| the top button is difficult to see because of the shadow (you can also see from this where the pocket flaps should go (the other one goes in exactly the same place on the other side)) |
 |
| a reference for the placement of the buttons |
For the screwdriver:
The basic body of this is crocheted with a plastic-y bit in the middle, and then little details are embroidered on. This is, in my opinion, the hardest part of the model, since it is so fiddly.
For the end section:
The basic body of this is crocheted with a plastic-y bit in the middle, and then little details are embroidered on. This is, in my opinion, the hardest part of the model, since it is so fiddly.
For the end section:
with black embroidery thread and a 1mm hook make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: slip1, ch1, sc in this same st, ch1, slip the same st, slip the next 2sts, ch1, sc in the same st, ch1, slip the same st and the next 2sts, ch1, sc in the same st, ch1, slip the same st. Fasten off
For the middle section:
with silver embroidery thread and a 1mm hook make a magic loop with 6sc
Rounds 1 - 3: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off
For the tip:
with bright blue make a magic loop with 6sc, fasten off
join on silver yarn
Round 1: sc in each st
Round 2: slip1, sc2, ch2, skip1, sc2, ch2, skip1, slip1
Round 3: sc2, sc in the hole made by the sc2, sc2, sc in the hole made by the sc2, slip1
Fasten off
join on grey yarn
Round 4 - 8: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 4 - 8: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
join on silver yarn
Round 9: sc in each st, slip the first st of this round
Fasten off
For the tip:
join on silver yarn
Round 1: sc in each st
Round 2: slip1, sc2, ch2, skip1, sc2, ch2, skip1, slip1
Round 3: sc2, sc in the hole made by the sc2, sc2, sc in the hole made by the sc2, slip1
Fasten off
Now you need to assemble the screwdriver
from the thin, clear plastic cut a strip 1cm x 1.5 cm
curl this into a tube 1cm tall and use selotape to stick it in place. Push one end into the inside of the middle section of the screwdriver (the longest one) so that most of it is pointing out and use white or grey sewing thread to sew it in place.
This is a bit difficult, and the tube will inevitably get a bit crumpled but just try your best
The diagrams below show two ways to sew the plastic in place. The thick outer circle represents the outer crocheted section, and the thin inner circle represents the plastic tube nestled inside. The first diagram shows the ideal way to sew the plastic on, making small running stitches through the plastic/ crochet, but this is extremely tricky since the plastic is quite tough and what you are working with is very small. What I did instead was more akin to the second diagram: making repeated stitches through the entire width of the screwdriver (through crochet plastic, plastic then crochet) which held it in place reasonably well.
Next take a single strand of yellow embroidery thread and attach it to the bottom of the silver end of this section you have just been working on. Thread it up through the centre of this section you have just made.
After you do this thread the other end of the strand through the middle of the tip section of the screwdriver and out of the end (or a bit near the end - you are going to have to hide the ending when you fasten off (which you should not do yet) so it doesn't really matter too much where it comes out)
slide the plastic section into the open end of the tip, then sew the plastic in place. Make sure the yellow strand is taut inside the plastic tube
Once the plastic section is sewn in place fasten off the yellow strand, making side that you cannot see the thread from the outside anywhere except the inside of the tube. The easiest way I found to do this way to make a few repeated stitches through the middle of the screwdriver, placing my needle in almost the same place it had emerged
Next sew the black end section onto the silver end of the screwdriver (this will cover up where you fastened on the yellow embroidery thread)
Next add a small blue stripe to the grey section of the screwdriver:
with 3 strands of medium blue embroidery thread (use the bright blue if you don't have any) make a long stitch along the side of the screwdriver
After this use grey thread to add a small bump to the side of the srewdriver
make repeated stitches just below the silver section.
curl this into a tube 1cm tall and use selotape to stick it in place. Push one end into the inside of the middle section of the screwdriver (the longest one) so that most of it is pointing out and use white or grey sewing thread to sew it in place.
This is a bit difficult, and the tube will inevitably get a bit crumpled but just try your best
 |
| You need to insert the end of the plastic tube into the hole shown by the arrow. I found it easier to open up the hole using the blunt end of a crochet hook before doing this. If your tube really doesn't fit in place you may need to make a thinner tube by cutting another piece of plastic that isn't so wide. |
 |
| ideal way |
 |
| easiest way |
Next take a single strand of yellow embroidery thread and attach it to the bottom of the silver end of this section you have just been working on. Thread it up through the centre of this section you have just made.
After you do this thread the other end of the strand through the middle of the tip section of the screwdriver and out of the end (or a bit near the end - you are going to have to hide the ending when you fasten off (which you should not do yet) so it doesn't really matter too much where it comes out)
slide the plastic section into the open end of the tip, then sew the plastic in place. Make sure the yellow strand is taut inside the plastic tube
Once the plastic section is sewn in place fasten off the yellow strand, making side that you cannot see the thread from the outside anywhere except the inside of the tube. The easiest way I found to do this way to make a few repeated stitches through the middle of the screwdriver, placing my needle in almost the same place it had emerged
 |
| the yellow lines show where the thread should go to fasten off (although obviously this would be inside the screwdriver behind the tip) |
Next sew the black end section onto the silver end of the screwdriver (this will cover up where you fastened on the yellow embroidery thread)
Next add a small blue stripe to the grey section of the screwdriver:
with 3 strands of medium blue embroidery thread (use the bright blue if you don't have any) make a long stitch along the side of the screwdriver
After this use grey thread to add a small bump to the side of the srewdriver
 |
| the section circled is what you are trying to recreate |
Fasten off loose threads.
This is probably as detailed as you are going to get it for all intents and purposes - however, because I am so meticulous, I added some extra details that I'm not totally convinced made the screwdriver a whole lot better, but here they are:
To recreate the bumps around the end of the screwdriver I wound embroidery thread around wher I wanted them to go and then tightened it as much as I could.
I think this would have worked better if the screwdriver was slightly longer so there was enough room for them
I also tried to make a hole through the screwdriver at the top by making stitches around the edge of the hole the same way I did with the eyelets and shirt buttonholes but I'm not convinced it made much, if any, difference
This is probably as detailed as you are going to get it for all intents and purposes - however, because I am so meticulous, I added some extra details that I'm not totally convinced made the screwdriver a whole lot better, but here they are:
To recreate the bumps around the end of the screwdriver I wound embroidery thread around wher I wanted them to go and then tightened it as much as I could.
I think this would have worked better if the screwdriver was slightly longer so there was enough room for them
I also tried to make a hole through the screwdriver at the top by making stitches around the edge of the hole the same way I did with the eyelets and shirt buttonholes but I'm not convinced it made much, if any, difference
Finally sew the screwdriver to the hand if you want to use this doll as a model or, if you want to be able to play around with him place the screwdriver in the inside pocket of the coat
I hope you enjoyed this pattern!
If you find any faults please let me know and I will try to sort them out as soon as possible. You can contact me in a number of different ways: either by commenting below, messaging me on my Instagram account or by contacting me on my Ravelry page. If you have any suggestions for future patterns please let me know! I'm quite busy at the moment but I will try to get it done asap :)
You are very welcome to use this pattern for personal use but please don't sell finished products (I mean I don't have any objection to it but Doctor Who is copyrighted by the BBC so if you do want to sell your models you might want to be aware of that) Also please don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you :)
Here is a final collage of extra pictures of David Tennant:
(I was reluctant to discard any of the pictures I took of him)
