Sunday, 10 February 2019

Little 2nd doctor (Doctor Who)

This crocheted model of the second Doctor (played by Patrick Troughton) is designed to be the same size as all of the animals in my little animals collection (found here), meaning that the clothes will fit any of the other animals in the collection.





Difficulty:

Medium



You will need:
  • dk yarn in grey
  • 4ply yarn in black, white, and grey
  • three white 9mm buttons
  • Embroidery thread in black, white, and grey
  • Toy stuffing
  • A darning needle
  • A pair of scissors
  • A small section of cardboard
  • A pet brush
  • Some PVA glue
  • A paintbrush
  • A regular sewing needle (ideally long and thin)
  • Black sewing thread
  • Two knitting needles (the gauge doesn't really matter but the smaller the better)
  • A saucepan and kettle



Note:

  • 'fasten off neatly' refers to a special way of fastening off which is neater and makes it easier to see where you should be crocheting on the next round (also known as invisible fastening off). This involves pulling up your yarn through your stitch, threading the yarn underneath the second stitch from where you pulled your yarn up, then threading your yarn back through the top of this stitch and down through the back of the work. There is a very helpful site that explains it clearly found here. Just make sure when you do this that you thread your needle through the SECOND stitch after the last stitch you made, otherwise you will end up with an extra stitch which may mean that all of the following rounds are out of line with each other.
  • This pattern includes the back-to-front single crochet stitch (bfsc). A video to show you how to do this can be found here. It's pretty simple but if you can't work it out you can just use a regular single crochet stitch, but this will give it a slightly different look.
  • The 'loop behind the back loop' refers to the loop known as the 'third loop' in the diagram below


For the body (starting from the base):

With grey make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep  to end (18sc)
Round 3: sc in the first 2 sts, 2sc in the next st, rep to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Rounds 4 - 8: (5 rounds) sc in each st (24sc)
Round 9: sc in the first 2 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (18sc)
Round 10: sc in the first st, sc2tog, rep to end (12sc)
Round 11: sc in the first st, sc2tog, rep to end (8sc)
Round 12: sc2, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog (6sc)
Round 13: sc in each st
Fasten off


For the arms (make 2):
With grey make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, rep to end (9sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each st (9sc)
Round 4: sc in the first st, sc2tog, rep to end (6sc) 
Rounds 5 - 10: (6 rounds) sc in each st (6sc)
Fasten off

For the legs (make 2):

With grey make a magic loop with 6sc
Round 1: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 2: sc in the first 3 sts, 2cs in the next st, rep to end (15sc)
Rounds 3 - 4: (2 rounds) sc in each st (15sc)
Round 5: sc2tog 3 times, sc in the last 9 sts (12sc)
Round 6: sc in the first 2 sts, sc2tog, rep to end (9sc)
Rounds 7 - 11: (5 rounds) sc in each st (9sc)
Fasten off


For the head (from the bottom up):
Ch3
Round 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, 3sc in the neck loop (the first chain st you made), then make 2sc into the back of the first chain st you crocheted into
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12sc)
Round 3: (sc, 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)
Round 4: sc in each st
Round 5: (sc2, 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (24sc)
Rounds 6 - 9: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 10: (sc2, sc2tog) 6 times to end (18sc)
Stuff the head
Round 11: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times to end (12sc)
Round 12: sc2tog 6 times to end (6sc)
Fasten off
Sew this to the body



For the face:
Try to use this image as a reference for the face to make it look as accurate as possible
For the ears:
For the right ear: (looking at it from the front)
With grey dk yarn and a 2.5mm hook ch4
Row 1: 3sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next chain st, 2sc in the last chain st. 
Fasten off

For the left ear:
With grey dk yarn and a 2.5mm hook ch4
Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next chain st, 3sc in the last chain st. 
Fasten off

Sew these to the sides of the head


For the nose:
With grey dk yarn and a 2.5mm hook make a magic loop with 3sc. ch1, turn
Row 1: sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 2: 2sc in the first st, sc, 2sc in the last st
Fasten off
Sew this to the face


Use the grey yarn to shape the face more like Patrick Troughton's. Use repeated stitches in the face to draw up and shape the chin, and to add the creases around the mouth.

For the eyes:
Embroider the eyes using 2 strands of embroidery thread.
First embroider the whites using white, then embroider the irises over the top using grey embroidery thread. Finally embroider the pupils over the top using black embroidery thread.
I have done the hair before the eyes in this picture but it is a lot easier to do it the other way round
For the eyebrows:
Embroider the eyebrows to the face using black embroidery thread


For the hair:
Cut a rectangle of cardboard 9.5cm wide. Wind the black 4ply yarn around its width 45 - 50 times. Cut the yarn at both ends of the cardboard to give a hundred (ish) 9.5cm long strands.
Attach these strands to the knitting needles by folding the middle around the knitting needle and threading the ends through the loop formed to give the knot shown below.


After you have attached all of the strands to one of the knitting needles use the pet brush to brush the strands until they are smooth (they will be very fluffy at this point)

Next boil a kettle full of water and, when the water has boiled, empty it into a saucepan. Dunk the strands of yarn into the hot water for about a minute (as shown below), then take them out and leave them to dry.



After they are dry take a paintbrush and brush glue over the very tops of all of the strands, just below where they are attached to the knitting needles. Do this on both sides, trying to get the glue to reach around and through the strands as much as possible. Leave them to dry

Once the glue is dry, cut the strands free from the knitting needle just above where you have glued them.

Next you need to sew them to the head. Do this by using a needle and black thread with a backstitch, sewing through the glued section of all of the strands. Sew the strands so that initially they seem to be facing in the opposite direction that you want them to go, so that when they are folded in the right direction they cover the glued section. Start at the top of the head with the fringe, then work back over the rest of the head.
The hair should be sewn in the opposite direction to where you want it to face (this will mean that for the minute it will tend to stick up a lot)
If you want to get more of a feel for how the hair should look you can temporarily hold the hair down using pins
The doll may start to look slightly troll-ish, but we will sort this out later


Once you have attached all of the hair that you want to you can start styling it. Using the needle and thread make small almost invisible stitches through the hair to hold it to the head.


After you have sewn the hair down you will want to trim it.





For the shirt:
With white 4ply yarn and a 2mm hook ch33
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in every following chain st. ch1, turn (32sc)
Row 2: bfsc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 3: sc in each st
Row 4:Bfsc, ch1, skip1, bfsc30. ch1, turn
Row 5:sc29, skip1, 2sc in the hole made by the ch1, sc. ch1, turn (32sc)
Row 6: bfsc in each st
Row 7: sc in each st
Row 8:  Bfsc, ch1, skip1, bfsc30. ch1, turn
Row 9: Sc5, sc2tog. ch1, turn (6sc)
Row 10: Bfsc6. ch1, turn
Row 11: Sc5, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (7sc)
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 8 to 3rd st from last section
Row 9: Sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog. ch1, turn (11sc)
Row 10: BfSc2tog, bfsc7, bfsc2tog. ch1, turn (9sc)
Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc7, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (11sc)
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 7 to 3rd st from last section.
Row 9: Sc2tog, sc4, skip1, 2sc in the hole made by the ch1, sc. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 10: Bfsc6, bfsc2tog. ch1, turn (7sc)
Row 11: 2sc in the first st, sc6. ch1, turn (8sc)
Row 12: Bfsc, ch1, skip1, bfsc4, bfsc2tog, ch3, across next section: Bfsc4, bfsc3tog, bfsc4, ch3, across next section: bfsc2tog, bfsc3, bfsc2tog. ch1, turn (27sts)
Row 13: sc3, sc2tog, sc15, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog between the hole made by the ch1 and the last st. ch1, turn (24sc)
Row 14: Bfsc3, bfsc2tog 3 times, bfsc2, bfsc3tog, bfsc2, bfsc2tog 3 times, bfsc2. ch1, turn (16sc)
Row 15: Sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 16: Sc in the back loop only of each st
Fasten off

For the left sleeve:
Attach yarn to the top back corner of left armhole (as shown below)
Round 1: Sc 15 around the armhole
Round 2: Sc4, slip4, sc7
Round 3: Hdc2, sc2, slip4, sc2, hdc5. Slip1
Fasten off

For the right sleeve:
Attach yarn to top front corner of right armhole (as shown below)
Round 1: Sc 15 around the armhole
Round 2: Sc4, slip4, sc7
Round 3: Hdc2, sc2, slip4, sc2, hdc5. Slip1
Fasten off

Sew three white buttons to the shirt opposite the buttonholes


For the coat:
With black 4ply yarn and a 2mm hook ch32
Row 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 30 sts. ch1, turn (31sc)
Rows 2 - 4: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 5: 2sc in the first st, sc29, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (33sc)
Rows 6 - 9: (4 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 10: 2sc in the first st, sc31, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (35sc)
Row 11: sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 12: sc2tog, sc31, sc2tog. ch1, turn (33sc)
Row 13: sc in each st. ch1, tun
Row 14: sc2tog, sc29, sc2tog. ch1, turn (31sc)
Row 15: sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 16: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog (5sc)
Row 17: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 18: sc2tog, sc3 (4sc)
Rows 19 - 21: (3 rows) sc in each st
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 15 to the 2nd st from this section.
Row 16: sc2tog, sc3, sc3tog, sc, sc3tog, sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (11sc)
Rows 17 - 19: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Row 20: 2sc in the first st, sc9, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (13sc)
Row 21: 2sc in the first st, sc11, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (15sc)
Row 22: 2sc in the first st, sc13, 2sc in the last st. ch1, turn (17sc)
Row 23: sc4, slip9, sc4
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 15 to 2nd st from this section.
Row 16: sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (5sc)
Row 17: sc5. ch1, turn
Row 18: sc3, sc2tog. ch1, turn (4sc)
Rows 19 - 21: (3 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn
Fasten off

For the sleeves (Make 2):
ch13
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in every following chain st to end (13sc)
Rounds 2 - 9: (8 rounds) sc in each st
Row 10: ch1, turn. sc8
Row 11: ch1, turn. sc3, sc2tog, sc3 (7sc)
Row 12: ch1, turn. sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog (5sc)
Fasten off

Sew these to the armholes


For the bowtie:
With black 4ply yarn and a 2mm hook ch5
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, sc in the last chain st. ch1, turn (3sc)
Row 2: sc3tog, ch18
Row 3: 3sc in 17th chain st. ch1, turn (3sc)
Row 4: sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the last st
Fasten off

Tie this around the neck. You may want to sew it in place if you do not intend to undress your doll.


For the trousers:
with a 2mm hook and black 4ply yarn ch32
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in each of the next 31 sts to end (32sc)
Rounds 2 - 3: (2 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off neatly
Re-join grey yarn to one of these stitches
Rounds 4 - 5: (2 rounds) sc in each st (32sc)
Fasten off neatly
Re-join black yarn to one of these stitches
Rounds 6 - 7: (2 rounds) sc in each st (32sc)
Fasten off neatly
Re-join grey yarn to one of these sts
Round 8: sc16, ch6, skip16 (22sts)
Round 9: sc22 around each of the sts and chain sts of last round (22sc)
Fasten off neatly
Fasten on black to one of these sts
Rounds 10 - 11: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off neatly
Rejoin grey yarn to one of these sts
Rounds 12 - 13: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off neatly
Re-join with black to one of these sts
Rounds 14 - 15: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off

With grey fasten on to row 7 to the st after where you first crocheted into after the ch6 of the previous leg.
Row 8: sc16, ch6 (22sts)
Row 9: sc in each of these last 22sts of the previous round
Fasten off neatly
Re-join black yarn to one of these sts
Rounds 10 - 11: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off neatly
Rejoin grey yarn to one of these sts
Rounds 12 - 13: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off neatly
Re-join with black to one of these sts
Rounds 14 - 15: (2 rounds) sc in each st (22sc)
Fasten off


sew in all loose ends


To make the checked pattern:
The checked pattern is created using surface crochet slip stitches
Firstly using black yarn rows of slip stitches around the trousers in the gaps after each grey round.
 Sew in all loose ends


After you have done this use the grey yarn to slip verticle rows down the length of the trousers every 4 or so stitches (this is a little fiddly but possible)

You may also want to add a stripe underneath the crotch section to complete the pattern



For the braces (make 2):
Cut 3 strands of black 4ply yarn approx. 15cm long. Plait them together.

Sew the ends of these to the waistband of the trousers, crossing them over at the back (as shown below) and trim off any loose ends




For the boots:
With black 4ply yarn and a 2mm hook ch7
Round 1: sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in each of the next 4 chain sts, 3sc in the next chain st (the first one you made), sc in the back of each of the previous 4 chain sts you crocheted into, 2sc in the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (14sc)
Round 2: 2sc in the first st, sc4, 2sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc4, 2sc in each of the next 2sts (20sc)
Round 3: sc, 2sc in the next st, sc5, (2sc in the first st, sc in the next st) 3 times, sc4, 2sc in the following st, sc, 2sc in the last st(26sc)
Fasten off neatly
Fasten on to loop behind back loop of 2nd st after the 'new' st you made when fastening off neatly
Round 4: sc26, crocheting in the loop behind the back loop of each st
Round 5: sc26
Round 6: sc6, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc13 (22sc)
Round 7: sc5, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc12 (20sc)
Round 8: sc20
Round 9: sc7, sc2tog, sc11 (19sc)
Rounds 10 - 12: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten off




I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any queries or suggestions for future patterns you'd like to see, please let me know either in the comments below or via my Instagram or Ravelry 
pages.

Please don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. I also ask that you don't sell finished products since Doctor Who is copyrighted by the BBC and you may get into trouble. However, I do have lots of other patterns where you are very welcome to sell finished products (anything that isn't of a copyrighted character). Thank you!








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